Your TTR250 lowering link is made by Kouba Link: http://koubalink.com/TTR250.html
Tuesday, December 18, 2012
Thursday, December 13, 2012
Our reply: No it is different.
Monday, December 10, 2012
Our reply: At 175 pounds your WRF will be too soft at 100mm. You're on the border of needing a heavier spring, but I would first try setting the race sag at 94-90mm and going in on the high-speed compression. We walk you through this in the instructions that come with the YamaLink. If you find it's bottoming or too plush then it'd be time for a heavier spring. Get one for a 200 pound rider and that would allow you to set race sag closer to 100mm if you so desired.
Saturday, December 8, 2012
are the bearings already greased?
what kind of grease do you guys use/recommend for the linkage?
there's a grease fitting on your "dog bone" that I bought from you.
what's the best type of re-packable grease gun/fitting should be used for this?
Our reply: Everything is pre-greased. We use a moly-based grease. Any grease gun should work.
Our reply "Important! Your YZF must be properly sprung for the extra 10% YamaLink leverage + rider weight AND you MUST RESET SAG otherwise the bike will be too soft (stock spring limit of about 170 pounds/77kg)! For more aggressive riding we recommend setting sag around 94-90mm. Lighter riders are RESETTING sag to 3.9 in/100mm for maximum lowering."
Monday, November 26, 2012
1. Does the stock shock lowering mechanism do the same thing as the yammalink or are they doing different things to the geometry? How do they interact with each other?
2. If someone only lowered 1 inch with the yamalink, but left the stock shock at its highest, would the front still need to be lowered?
3. If the bike feels good with yamalink, but no front end lowering, is there any damage or mechanical wear that takes place, is it dangerous or is it strictly a "feel" thing?
The stock lowering is purely lowering. The YamaLink is lowering + increased
leverage which makes the bike handle much better on the braking bumps,
acceleration bumps and square edge.
Lowering the front end with a YamaLink-only, with the stock lowering only or
with the YamaLink + stock lowering is purely personal. Not lowering the
front end would cause it to understeer a bit, a chopper effect.
No damage takes place. It is purely a feel thing, yes. What feels good to one rider may feel "odd" to another. We recommend sliding the fork tubes UP at a starting point of 12mm (.5 inches) and the rider adjusts up or down a few millimeters based on how he/she likes their bike to feel.
The two most popular are Trail Tech and Pro Moto Billet. Trailtech supposedly makes a supermoto version which is shorter than a "regular" sidestand.
Trailtech: http://trailtech.net/kickstands.html has a good return policy (but I'd read the fine print just to be sure)
Friday, November 23, 2012
Sunday, November 18, 2012
We do not make a YamaLink for any year of YZ85.
No we do not. Every YamaLink we sell is on the website.....Truth be knownb, we've never even heard of that Yamaha!
Monday, November 12, 2012
Our reply: www.koubalink.com has the Yamaha lowering link for your 1999 TTR250.
Monday, November 5, 2012
Friday, October 26, 2012
Answer: It's purely personal. Most lightweight 'moto riders go for the 1.5 inch YamaLink since the extra leverage allows them to properly utilize the stock spring's recommended sag settings. But heavier riders may find the 1.5 wallows too much, thus the 1 inch YamaLink option.
Aaron, Hi. We don't know of any way to lower the WR250R the 3 or 4 inches you seek; it would destroy the bike's handling and balance if that were possible, anyway. We could've lowered the WR250 more, but extensive testing told us that 2 inches in the rear was the maximum & still get a balanced ride up front. More than 2" (1" from factory lowering & 1" from YamaLink) makes the WR250 ride like a chopper.
Our reply: Set your race sag to 94mm - 90mm and turn the high speed compression knob in clockwise half a revolution. Don't even touch the flat blade. At 75kg (165 pounds) you are totally fine with the stock spring if the shock has not been revalved.
Your dealer or any company like Race Tech, Factory Connection, etc. There are a handful online or mailorder who sells springs for pretty much every bike. If you're in between spring rates after figuring out body weight + 10% we recommend going for the higher spring rate. Example: you now need a 6.1 but the spring rates are only 6.0 and 6.2 kg/mm, get the 6.2 spring
Monday, October 15, 2012
Thursday, October 4, 2012
Monday, October 1, 2012
Friday, September 28, 2012
Our reply: The WR250R and WR250X have a built-in 1 inch lowering by way of its lower shock mount.
Wednesday, September 12, 2012
Wednesday, September 5, 2012
Michael, Hello. Yes, we do.It's HERE
Our reply: It's purely personal. Most lightweight 'moto riders go for the 1.5 since the extra leverage allows them to properly utilize the stock spring's recommended sag settings. But heavier riders may find the 1.5 wallows too much, thus the 1 inch YamaLink option.
Monday, August 13, 2012
And we replied "Our recommendations with a YamaLink is to raise the forks in the triple clamps 12mm as a starting point and then adjust up or down based on personal preference."
Our reply: You're looking at the wrong YamaLink. The 1" + 1" is for the WR250r and WR250x.
Sunday, July 29, 2012
With the yamalink should I get a heavier rear spring, in your advertisement it says 10% but is that only for over 170lbs? I want to lower it as much as possible and have 4 inches of race sag.
Our reply: Steven, Hello. My 13 year old nephew is the same height, weight and ability as your son. He recently started riding a YZ125 while still riding his Super Mini and 85. At first he put on the 1.5 with a lighter spring, but eventually went to the stock spring and the 1.5 YamaLink. Today he is on the YZ RACE.
My recommendation for 99% of lightweight YZ 125 riders is to consider a lighter spring, but for the 1% of kids like your son and my nephew I say try the stock spring first (the too-heavy one) and reset sag and go in clockwise on the high-speed compression (the big knob atop the shock, not the flat blade) in 1/3 turn increments until the bike handles big g-outs and flat landings.
My 16 year nephew weighs 140 and races local pro, borrowing (stealing) his little brother's YZ for Schoolboy when his own KX450 is tore apart. He ran the stock spring and the 1.5 for a few months, and loved it but said he'd probably go to a slightly heavier spring. But since the bike has the RACE YamaLink on they have zero issues....and they're not just saying that cuz I'm their uncle. Dang kids!
Hope this helps. Let me know if you have more questions.
RESET SAG to factory spec. Most settle at 3.25 inches. If you feel the rear
is too soft, turn in the compression just a little bit & rebound in 1 or 2
clicks. Fine-tune based on terrain, personal preference, etc. Combined with
the stock .9 inch lowering option via the shock block
YamaLink lowers the rear suspension an additional inch.
IMPORTANT! Slide the fork tubes UP in the triple clamps - start at around 12mm & adjust based on preference. FYI, 18mm is the MAX you should go. Re-torque the upper fork clamp bolts to 17ft. lbs. & the lower clamp bolts to 14ft. lbs. And don't forget to properly tighten the chain before riding.
Our reply: I find it much easier to put the WR on a stand or box. But a few do it with the bike on the ground.
Friday, July 13, 2012
Tuesday, July 10, 2012
Our reply: Make sure you do not estimate shipping. Click HERE Just go to checkout. That's where you should have two options.
Monday, July 9, 2012
Tuesday, June 26, 2012
Wednesday, June 20, 2012
Friday, June 15, 2012
Friday, May 25, 2012
Our reply: If your TTR230 is 2005 or newer the YamaLink will do the job. We recommend sliding the forks UP in the triple clamps 10mm and then adjust up or down a few millimeters either way for your girlfriend's personal preference.
Our reply: There is no 1:1 ratio of fork & rear change. Five millimeter may be more than you actually need. Raising the forks is not for lowering the front end, per say, it is more to "balance" the geometry. I'd set your sag at 94mm and turn the high-speed compression (the big knob) in clockwise 1/4 turn. Also turn your rebound in 1 or 2 clicks. Simply follow the instructions.
Yes, we do make a YamaLink for the new Yamaha WR450
As you know stock is 5.7 kg/mm and at 210 pounds before gear it is recommended you use a 5.8 kg/mm.
I'd get that 5.8 kg. The YamaLink I'd recommend is the RACE version, NOT the 1.5 inch version:
Thursday, May 10, 2012
Friday, April 27, 2012
Tuesday, April 24, 2012
Steve, The stock 2009 WR250F spring rate is 4.9 kg/mm. At 190 pounds BEFORE A YAMALINK you need a 5.4 kg/mm to achieve proper sag. So you need a heavier spring anyway. With a YamaLink you need a 5.6 kg/mm spring to achieve proper sag.
Monday, April 23, 2012
Wednesday, April 11, 2012
Thursday, April 5, 2012
At lower speeds the Yamalink has made the greatest difference in lowering the center of gravity as well as allowing me to get my feet down on steep technical mountain trails. No more falling over in the rough stuff. Yeah !
Our reply: Great! Yes, headshake is the "key" to knowing if your forks are raised too much in the clamps. All personal preference; what works for you may not work for someone else, and vice versa.
Friday, March 23, 2012
Our reply: At 180 you may need to go to a heavier spring since you are on borderline with stock setup. The YamaLink's extra leverage would make the bike "think" you are 180 pus about 18 pounds, and before gear that's too heavy with the stock spring.
Many decrease race sag to about 94mm and turn in high-speed compression in 1/4 turn increments. That would work great tooling around following your kid but it would more than likely be too soft and bottom excessively on a MX track or aggressive riding until you put on a heavier spring.
Our reply: Losing the line is a combination of lack of momentum and the rear tire not digging in. The extra leverage of the YamaLink will help tremendously if sag and spring rates are set properly.
I don't know of anyone who puts spacers in their forks. Travel is often decreased and the bike rides more rudely on the small bumps.
Tuesday, March 6, 2012
Our reply: A 250 pounder is waaaay too heavy for the stock spring. A 6.4 or closest is
recommended. With the YamaLink the 190 pounder may be able to get away with the stock
spring after he resets sag and turns in high speed compression in 1/4 turn
increments. Many 190 pounders also go to a 5.9 or closest spring.
Our reply: Stock was a 4.8 and without a YamaLink a 4.3 or 4.4 is recommended.
Keep your 4.6 spring on, install the YamaLink and reset sag. Our
instructions are super easy to follow and offer a few setup options. If you
have the stock 4.8 that is a good option to have, but try what you have on
Monday, February 13, 2012
Monday, February 6, 2012
Tuesday, January 17, 2012
Our reply: Your 2006 WR250F stock rear spring rate is 5.1 kg/mm
BEFORE the YamaLink is installed, RaceTech recommends a 5.5 kg/mm spring rate with the stock suspension to achieve proper sag and the best handling. Too much sag due causes understeering, bottoming and wallowing. You say you're not bottoming: was the bike purchased used and from a heavier rider who put a heavier spring on??
WITH a YamaLink on your bike a 5.8 kg/mm spring is recommended otherwise it will bottom too easily and understeer more.
Wednesday, January 11, 2012
Our reply: "The stock spring rate is 5.8kg/mm. At 202 pounds and expert ability a 6.0 kg/mm spring is recommended by Race Tech before adding a YamaLink RACE 1 inch.
Our reply....."Okay, let's figure out the spring rate.
At 212 pounds you are too heavy for the stock WR250F spring to achieve proper sag; the stock spring rate is set for a rider of about 180 pounds. And then of course adding the YamaLink's extra leverage requires a heavier spring.
The stock spring on an 02-04 is 4.8 kg/mm.
At 212 pounds with the STOCK suspension you need a spring rate of 5.4 kg/mm BEFORE the YamaLink.
Now we add the YamaLink and the spring you should use is a 5.8 kg/mm to achieve proper sag.