Thursday, March 3, 2011

Clint's 2010 YZ and 2005 YZ suspension lower link YamaLink questions

Clint writes:

Question, so I currently have a 2005 YZ250F with a Yamalink. I really like the change it made to the bike. I am a very light rider, 5’8” and about 130 LBS soaking wet and with gear, I was able to achieve the sag with the stock spring by reducing almost all of the pre load. Something that without the link I was not able to do without softer springs. I have one minor complaint about the way the bike seems to handle. It feels a little heavy in the rear over jumps and big drop offs. While I ride mostly single track so typically it isn’t a problem, but when I would like to get the rear off the ground it’s a bit of a struggle. Not sure if there is a setup trick that might help that?

Next question, and the bigger question I now have. I just purchased a 2010 YZ250F, and am again looking for a lowering link. I noticed that the 2010-2011 version is no longer the pivot type. What difference in terms of performance might I expect from the other (older) type, if any? Also, I am considering the 1” Race version because of my performance complaint noted above.

Love to hear your recommendations.

And our reply....

Have you tried increasing your rear shock's rebound (go counterclockwise). That gives it a bit more spring for when you preload the suspension. If you do this to the rebound make sure you do not take out so much that it kicks you.

Another reasons it may seem "heavy" in the rear is because the extra leverage is allowing the rear wheel to do just that: soak it up instead of deflect. But you want a tad of deflection it seems so it doesn't feel unlively, hence the suggestion to go counterclockwise in the rebound.

The 2010 YZF is of course different due to the swingarm changes. If you go with the 1" Race you will achieve better traction, planted turning and a little lower seat height with more big jump capabilities with minimal effect on overall geometry.

Let me know how the 05 handles by decreasing rear shock rebound 2 or 3 clicks

Kouba KTM lowering link suspension set up

KTM 350XCF rider David wanted to know about setting up his new Kouba Link lowering link kit. Our reply....


The #1 most important aspect will be to set sag:
After you install the Kouba Link reset sag according to the instructions.
You may find the extra leverage of the new KTM link about perfect even with your weight; the KTM 350 is a very soft riding bike, even the MX version feels like a traditional valved off-road bike so I can only imagine how plush the off-road version is.

If you shave the seat do not take off more than a little at a time. That
frame rail is very very uncomfortable on the back of your legs and butt.
But first try the Kouba Link, set sag and set it up.

WR250 WR450 Yamaha lowering link YamaLink suspension spring rate

Robert, a WRF Yamaha rider asked what spring rates he should consider with the new YamaLink suspension lowering kit. We replied....

If you have a WR450F the stock spring is a 5.3 kg/mm according to Race Tech,
and ideally a 5.6 + YamaLink is called for to ride at 100mm sag. I would
first try to REST your current spring to 94mm (as opposed to 100mm) and see
how you like it. Our instructions will guide you to turn the high speed
compression clockwise at least 1/4 to 1/2 turn for starters, and turn the
rebound in at least 3 clicks.

If you are on the 250F the stock spring is a 4.7 kg/mm, and ideally a 5.4 +
YamaLink is called for. All info above applies to the WR250F in terms of