Our answer: "The WR250F can be lowered 1.5". More info can be found by clicking HERE
Monday, June 16, 2014
Our reply: Stace, The YamaLink gives an actual 1" lowering in seat height, and combined with the stock factory lowering you get 2" total. Have you done the factory lowering per this tutorial (doesn't take an hour, maybe 15 minutes): http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-guide/suspension/115-lowering-r2
Stace writes back: Dan I guess I didn't lower it correctly. .. just softened up the suspension enough so that it would squish down with my weight. With regards to the linked instructions: to lower the seat height, I ultimately want to unscrew the lower shock bracket that the bolt goes through, correct? How much do I unscrew it to reach maximum safety standard? It's not a 1:1 ratio right?
Our final feedback: "Hi. After you take the bolt and nut off, the lower shock block will screw UP toward your black rebound knob. It goes all the way UP until just before the lock nut makes contact with the rebound knob. If you make contact with the rebound knob the knob will not turn. The fewer threads you see between the black rebound knob and the lock nut = more lowering."
Our reply: Let's pretend you confirmed your WR250 is indeed an R or X. By chance is a needle bearing lifting from the opposite bearing when you try to pass the pivot pin through? We pre-greased your YamaLink bearings, but maybe when you took the plastic bearing plugs out a needle bearing became dislodged or moved. Please check to make sure no needle bearing came out with the plastic plug when it was removed to insert the factory pin. If all needle bearings are in the bearing cage then go back to our suggestion of making sure a needle bearing doesn't pop up when passing the pin through.
Jesse writes back: "I have a 2013 wr250f. So Did I order the wrong one? If so can I exchange it?"
We knew it. Our reply: Sure, no problem. Return the WR250R/X YamaLink and purchase a WR250F lowering link.
Our reply: Yes, sag needs to be reset. The included written instructions sent with your YamaLink has the sag range options including fork height recommendations and fine tuning the rebound and compression.
The clevis turns UP after you loosen the big nut and spin that up. Sounds like you have the steps correctly. Your clevis is just super tight it seems. If you haven't seen this tutorial it's a good one: http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-guide/suspension/115-lowering-r2
Our reply: Ron, Hello. There is no 1:1 ratio of rear vs front lowering. And as you stated there is not enough room to raise the forks in the clamps 1.5 inches anyway. Each YamaLink comes with instructions covering everything from resetting rear sag, proper spring rate increase for the YamaLink, rebound and compression fine tuning and the aforementioned fork height adjustment.