Does this kit fit the YZ 125? Also, does the kit lower the front and rear of the bike. or just the rear?
Reply: It fits certain years of the YZ 125: http://www.motorcycleloweringlinks.com/index.php?content=yamaha-yz-limited-lowering-link
As for the front: our super simple install instructions gives a starting point and some guidelines for raising the front forks based on personal preference and final rear sag setting. There is no 1:1 ratio since changes to rake/trail affect the geometry at a different rate than changes to the rear suspension.
Monday, April 11, 2011
Monday, April 4, 2011
Brand new Yamaha suspension link coming
The 2012 Yamaha models are a long way away, but we've been working on a brand new Yamaha suspension lowering link. Strictly for the racers, go-fast guys (and girls), tall inseams and big jumpers.
Friday, March 18, 2011
2009 YZ450F suspension lowering link YamaLink
Chris writes about his 2009 Yamaha YZ450 YamaLink.....
I did have a question about the front forks. Would you recommend changing the fork springs to level the bike out or is raising them up is that sufficient?
Our reply.....
On the 2009 YZ450F our super simple install instructions recommends raising the fork tubes UP in the clamps at a starting point of 4mm (6mm is .25 inches) and adjusting based on rider preference and riding style.
I did have a question about the front forks. Would you recommend changing the fork springs to level the bike out or is raising them up is that sufficient?
Our reply.....
On the 2009 YZ450F our super simple install instructions recommends raising the fork tubes UP in the clamps at a starting point of 4mm (6mm is .25 inches) and adjusting based on rider preference and riding style.
Thursday, March 3, 2011
Clint's 2010 YZ and 2005 YZ suspension lower link YamaLink questions
Clint writes:
Question, so I currently have a 2005 YZ250F with a Yamalink. I really like the change it made to the bike. I am a very light rider, 5’8” and about 130 LBS soaking wet and with gear, I was able to achieve the sag with the stock spring by reducing almost all of the pre load. Something that without the link I was not able to do without softer springs. I have one minor complaint about the way the bike seems to handle. It feels a little heavy in the rear over jumps and big drop offs. While I ride mostly single track so typically it isn’t a problem, but when I would like to get the rear off the ground it’s a bit of a struggle. Not sure if there is a setup trick that might help that?
Next question, and the bigger question I now have. I just purchased a 2010 YZ250F, and am again looking for a lowering link. I noticed that the 2010-2011 version is no longer the pivot type. What difference in terms of performance might I expect from the other (older) type, if any? Also, I am considering the 1” Race version because of my performance complaint noted above.
Love to hear your recommendations.
And our reply....
Have you tried increasing your rear shock's rebound (go counterclockwise). That gives it a bit more spring for when you preload the suspension. If you do this to the rebound make sure you do not take out so much that it kicks you.
Another reasons it may seem "heavy" in the rear is because the extra leverage is allowing the rear wheel to do just that: soak it up instead of deflect. But you want a tad of deflection it seems so it doesn't feel unlively, hence the suggestion to go counterclockwise in the rebound.
The 2010 YZF is of course different due to the swingarm changes. If you go with the 1" Race you will achieve better traction, planted turning and a little lower seat height with more big jump capabilities with minimal effect on overall geometry.
Let me know how the 05 handles by decreasing rear shock rebound 2 or 3 clicks
Question, so I currently have a 2005 YZ250F with a Yamalink. I really like the change it made to the bike. I am a very light rider, 5’8” and about 130 LBS soaking wet and with gear, I was able to achieve the sag with the stock spring by reducing almost all of the pre load. Something that without the link I was not able to do without softer springs. I have one minor complaint about the way the bike seems to handle. It feels a little heavy in the rear over jumps and big drop offs. While I ride mostly single track so typically it isn’t a problem, but when I would like to get the rear off the ground it’s a bit of a struggle. Not sure if there is a setup trick that might help that?
Next question, and the bigger question I now have. I just purchased a 2010 YZ250F, and am again looking for a lowering link. I noticed that the 2010-2011 version is no longer the pivot type. What difference in terms of performance might I expect from the other (older) type, if any? Also, I am considering the 1” Race version because of my performance complaint noted above.
Love to hear your recommendations.
And our reply....
Have you tried increasing your rear shock's rebound (go counterclockwise). That gives it a bit more spring for when you preload the suspension. If you do this to the rebound make sure you do not take out so much that it kicks you.
Another reasons it may seem "heavy" in the rear is because the extra leverage is allowing the rear wheel to do just that: soak it up instead of deflect. But you want a tad of deflection it seems so it doesn't feel unlively, hence the suggestion to go counterclockwise in the rebound.
The 2010 YZF is of course different due to the swingarm changes. If you go with the 1" Race you will achieve better traction, planted turning and a little lower seat height with more big jump capabilities with minimal effect on overall geometry.
Let me know how the 05 handles by decreasing rear shock rebound 2 or 3 clicks
Kouba KTM lowering link suspension set up
KTM 350XCF rider David wanted to know about setting up his new Kouba Link lowering link kit. Our reply....
David,
The #1 most important aspect will be to set sag:
http://www.tootechracing.com/suspension_tips.htm
After you install the Kouba Link reset sag according to the instructions.
You may find the extra leverage of the new KTM link about perfect even with your weight; the KTM 350 is a very soft riding bike, even the MX version feels like a traditional valved off-road bike so I can only imagine how plush the off-road version is.
If you shave the seat do not take off more than a little at a time. That
frame rail is very very uncomfortable on the back of your legs and butt.
But first try the Kouba Link, set sag and set it up.
David,
The #1 most important aspect will be to set sag:
http://www.tootechracing.com/suspension_tips.htm
After you install the Kouba Link reset sag according to the instructions.
You may find the extra leverage of the new KTM link about perfect even with your weight; the KTM 350 is a very soft riding bike, even the MX version feels like a traditional valved off-road bike so I can only imagine how plush the off-road version is.
If you shave the seat do not take off more than a little at a time. That
frame rail is very very uncomfortable on the back of your legs and butt.
But first try the Kouba Link, set sag and set it up.
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