Yamaha WR250 track lowering

Many tall WR250R and WR250X riders & 'moto racers put the YamaLink on to help with the ripples and breaking bumps on the track. They don't lohttp://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gifwer it via the factory option and they reset sag so that the YamaLink does not give them any lowering.....but they want the extra leverage so the rear rides higher and "floats" through the pavement irregularities.

YamaLink YZ125 Yamaha lowering sponsored racer

Photo by RCH Photography Productions out of Boise, Idaho.
Rider: 5 feet, 2 inches and 95 pounds.

Sending YamaLinks overseas, to Russia

If you are from Russia and buying a Yamaha lowering link please know we ship the same day your order is placed, and have no control of the YamaLink once it leaves US borders and heads to Mother Country. As of December 15, 2011, Russia is taking a long time to deliver international express. Upwards of a month. All we can do is follow it online with the tracking nuber.

What to do with the TTR forks after lowering

Question of the day: Do you or should you raise the front forks a bit in the clamps to keep the geometry the same when using the lowering link? Would this be a help or hindrance if the sag is properly set?

Answer: We recommend sliding the fork tubes UP in the triple clamps after installing the YamaLink. Most TTR230 rides start at 10mm and adjust based on preference.

Another Mark but this one has a WR250 lowering grease question

Mark emails: Hi, received the yamalink today. Thanks for the sending promptly. I see there is a grease nipple on it, do I have to put grease in there before using?

Our reply:
We pack in a lot of grease before shipping but it never hurts to put more
in. Be careful no needle bearings pop out if you decide to toss a little
more in. But if you don't have any grease it's fine: our testing shows the
grease we put in lasts a minimum of 2 years!

Mark has a 2007 WR 450 sag question

From Mark: If I set the sag on the rear of my 07 wr450 with yamalink to 3.5 inches how much lowering of seat height will I get?


Our reply: If your 07 WR450F is set at 100mm with the stock components and then you install the YamaLink and RESET sag to 100mm the lowering will be 1.5 inches.

If you reset sag to 3.5 inches your overall net lowering difference will be just over 1 inch.

WR250R WR250X 1 inch lowering Yamaha

Three phone calls in 10 minutes about "where is the other 1 inch lowering for the WR250R or WR250X?"

Here is the best tutorial. Takes about 10 minutes, not an hour: Click HERE or copy and paste this link http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-guide/suspension/115-lowering-r2

Peter's 2008 WR450 lowering link questions

Peter writes....

Below are a few questions that I have regarding the Yamaha Lowing Links for a Yamaha WR 450 2008:


1. Does the link come ready to install (Bearing installed and greased).

2. Do any of the components of the original link need to be reused (I understand that the original bushings and/or sleeves need to be reused).

3. Does this link lower the seat height by 41mm (1.6inches) for my WR 450 '08'. I read in Thumper Talk (05-15-2008) that this lowering measurement (1.75inches)was for the WR’s up to 2008 and the lowering measurement for the WR 08 would be 32mm (1.25inches).

4. My weight is 75Kg (165lb) with no gear, would this mean that the stock suspension would still be suitable for me.


Our replies...

Peter,

The 2008 WRF YamaLink comes pregreased.
You put a finger in the stock Yamaha part and pull out the bearing pins and push them in the YamaLink.
We redesigned the YamaLink in 2010: it lowers the rear of your WRF a touch over 1.5 inches.
For off-road and trail riding the stock spring should work. Just reset sag and dial in the rebound and compression per our recommendations.

WR250X WR250R lowering link grease nipple question

Mark asks...."I see there is a grease nipple on it, do I have to put grease in there before using?"

Our reply: We pack in a lot of grease before shipping each YamaLink, but it never hurts to put more
in. Be careful no needle bearings pop out if you decide to toss a little
more in. But if you don't have any grease it's fine: our testing shows the
grease we put in lasts a minimum of 2 years!

Ben's Yamaha WRF sag and fork height after lowering link YamaLink

Ben asks.... "I have successfully installed the YamaLink. Set the sag to 4 inches. Dropped the triple tree by 6mm. Rear shock springs 6kg. I weigh 100kg. After an off road ride, I found the front wheel to be sliding sideways when going into a turn / corner. I soften the compression and rebound by 2 clicks from original. Should I reduce the drop to 4mm rather than 6mm. On the day of the ride, ground was hard packed soil and was running 14psi on both tyre. Any advice?"


Our advice: By sliding do you mean oversteering or understeering?

If it is oversteering I would go 4mm.
If it is understeering I would go 6mm.

Jeff's spring rate for his Yamaha WR250 lowering link

Jeff writes "Hello. I am wondering if the suspension is too stiff for me. I am 5'6" and around 140lbs. What would you recommend for spring rates and sag for someone like me. I ride on the road but I bought the bike more for the bush then road so my concern is getting it lower (yamalink and stock settings are as low as they get now) to the ground.

Any thoughts/tips are appreciated. Thanks Jeff

Our reply: Jeff,

If you have the stock spring rates on the Yamaha and then put the YamaLink on and reset sag, things should be spot on! But resetting sag is #1 most important.

2008 Yamaha YZ250 lowering link question

Anthony D asks.... "Hi, I need a lowering link for my YZ250F 2008. How much will this lower the bike? Can I remove shims at the front and use the lowering link at the back?"


Our reply:

http://www.motorcycleloweringlinks.com/index.php?content=yamaha-lowering-link-yzf is the 2008 YZF.

You do not have to remove any "shims" for the front forks. We recommend sliding the fork tubes UP in the triple clamps, and our instructions give you a few options for how much as it relates to your final sag reset in the rear.

Vanessa's 2011 YZ125 lowering link. Which one?

Vanessa asks/writes "Hi i just got a 2011 yz125 and I need it lower. Do I need 2 links to do this? Or do I need just the bottom one to lower?"

Our reply.....

Vanessa,

We make two lowering links for your 2011 YZ125. Choose 1 of the following:

The 1.6 inch version: Click HERE


or the shorter Race version: Click HERE

And another "where to find a link" in my country

I am trying to find a lowering kit for a Yamaha WR250F 2003, there does not seem to be a kit available in my country, but I was wondering if you might be able to supply me with this or information on where to get one.

Many thanks, Ben

Where to find WR250R lowering link quicker than 3 weeks from dealer?

I just wanted to let you know I have received the WR250R lowering link and am very impressed with the speed of delivery and the ease of purchase.

I had tried to buy one through the local Yamaha dealers in Canberra, Australia and were told they were out of stock and would take a few weeks to get in.

Instead I bought it through your website and five days later I have it ready to install.

Greatly appreciated.

Trev.

Ian and his WR450 Yamaha lowering question

Ian writes...

"Hi. I am from the UK & ride a 2006 WR450, i ride mainly green lanes which are of varied terrain from boggy mud to rocky hilly stuff i am 5ft 11inches tall weigh 79Kilo's without my kit on & struggle to get my feet on the ground, particularly if the ground is slightly uneven, in your opinion would the yamalink make that much difference, i really need to do something as i keep dropping it usually just as i stop & sometimes at very low speed, any feedback would be greatly received, & would i need to replace the rear shock or spring."

Our reply....

Ian,

79 kilos is approximately 175 pounds. If you are a leisurely trail rider you can get away with the stock spring and reset sag to 94mm. Resetting sag is very crucial.

If you plan to carry a heavy pack or a lot of water and tools then I recommend getting a 5.6 kg/mm spring.

Jeff from Illinois setting sag tool WR250R WR250X lowering

Jeff asks "I just purchased my used 2008 WR250x last night and was reading the manual trying to figure out how to set sag. Do I need a special wrench(s) to set the sag on these bikes ?"

Our reply:

Many use a long punch or old wide flat blade screwdriver + a good heavy
hammer (not a rubber mallet). Loosen the shock spring lock nut by hitting it
counterclockwise like any nut: right tighty, lefty loosey.

This gets the spring's lockring undone.

The easiest way to turn the shock spring up or down to adjust sag is by hand
but sometimes a bike is super crowded or the rider's forearms are too big to
fit anywhere near the spring to get a good grip near the bottom. Then you
have to use that long punch + hammer to beat, er, move the notched ring
below the lock ring and move it. Total pain often times.

It helps if the bike's rear shock threads are cleaned and maybe lubed to
help the shock lock nut and/or adjustment collar move up and down. One
complete revolution on the spring is about 2.5mm

Here is a refresher. They use long-travel MX bikes with 12" suspension but
the concept is the same: http://www.tootechracing.com/suspension_tips.htm

James Stewart on YZ250 two stroke

The lates video of James Stewart abusing the 250 two stroke: Click HERE

2012 Yamaha WR450 WR450F

Yamaha surprised us with the news of an all-new 2012 WR450: Click HERE

Andrew asks: 2001 WR426 lowering link fit the WR250 2005?

Question: I've got a YamaLink lowering link for a wr426 01 model and was wondering if it will fit a wr250 05 model.

Answer: Nope.

Will the TTR230 YamaLink fit the TTR125?

Question: I'm looking at the TT-R 125 LE for my son. Do you know if your TTR230 YamaLink will fit?


Answer: No, it unfortunately does not.

Ben's 2011 WR250F lowering questions

From Malaysian WR250F rider Ben....

Can you advice me on the proper measurements for race sag and how much should I move the front end. I mainly ride slow to medium speed cross country. I tackle a great deal of slow speed technical hill climbs and rutted surface.

I am a 6 footer but I can't flat foot on the original settings. For that I am thinking of using your YamaLink. I weigh 220 pounds or 100kg. I already have a 6.1kg spring from race tech and I think that will fit nicely with the link.

Question is
1.how much sag should I set for my type of riding.
2.how much should I move the front end so as not to change the original bike's geometry.
3. Anything else I need to know.

I need to get it right the first time as my ride is 600kms over a week.
How many inches will my Wr250f drop when using the YamaLink. Is this the maximum that it can go?


Our reply....
If your sag is set at 100mm now and you install the YamaLink and reset sag to 100mm, the difference will be a little over 1.5 inches.

The most important part is resetting sag and being properly sprung for rider
weight + extra leverage of the YamaLink. Click HERE for more info

Marc's WR250F WR450F spring rate and sag for lowering YamaLink

Yamaha WR UK rider Marc writes "I weigh 13 st 6 lb hope to be able to set up suspension to suit."

After Googling the conversion from stone to pounds we replied.....

I believe 13 stone 6 lb is about 187 pounds in the US measurement. With the stock setup you are fine at 187 pounds and should be able to set your suspension up with 100mm sag.

With the WR250 and WR450 YamaLink and its extra leverage we take your 187 pounds and ADD 10% which is 18.7 pounds. Total weight you should spring your bike for is 187 + 18.7 for approximately 206 pounds.

To get perfect balance and handling I recommend going UP in spring rate for the rear to a 5.6 kg/mm spring to achieve the great handling and not have excess bottoming and understeer.
You can try to reset your sag with the stock spring and the YamaLink but I
bet you'll have a difficult time getting anywhere near 94mm to 100mm.

How to lower the WR 250R WR250X shock mount

We presumed every dealer knew about this. We thought Yamaha WR250R and WR250X riders knew about this from online forums. So we took the tutorial off our site. Maybe we should put it back up since we've had a few calls this week about "how to lower the rear that other inch other than the YamaLink.

It doesn't take an hour. Maybe 15 minutes. Okay, more like 10.


http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-guide/suspension/115-lowering-r2

Dean's Yamaha WR250 lowering link question about sag

Dean, a WR250R/X rider, emails with.....

"I guess I do not understand why one would loosen the Lower Shock Block versus adjusting the larger threaded flange nuts at the top of the shock assembly. Also, assuming I follow the prescribed method, should/can the Lower Shock Block be loosened until it won't loosen anymore, or is there a risk of the entire shock assembly coming apart? I am 170 lbs., 30" inseam."

Our reply.....

Threaded nut flanges at TOP of shock allows spring to be loosened or compressed for sag only. The shock mount nut at the bottom allows the shock block/clevis to move up or down ONLY. Has nothing to do with sag. The shock mount should come in the most "loose" position from the factory. Riders are moving it UP to lower it. You move it up until it almost contacts your black rebound dial.

More from Darryl about lowering his WR and fork height

Darryl writes, again....

I believe having the front a lot higher than the rear will make my bike
feel driving a boat. Won't lowering the front remove the excessive
twitchiness it already had before I lowered the rear?

To which we said.....

Changes to rake/trail (the front forks) affect geometry at a different rate than changes to the rear. But it is purely up to you how much you raise the front forks.

Too much and it will shake violently at speed and oversteer at slow speeds.
Not enough and it will be super stable but understeer at slow and medium speeds and feel like a chopper.

It's all about personalization and trial-and-error. After resetting sag in rear I'd say 90% of YamaLink owners slide the forks up 4 to 10mm.

Darryl's Yamaha WR450 YamaLink lowering and fork raising question

Darryl writes.... I recently purchased a Yamalink lowering link for my WR 450.

I was impressed by how easy this was to fit and the difference it make to my bike. It lowered the rear by approx. 55mm which was exactly what I was looking for. I believe this will give me the confidence to tackle just about any hill.

My question now is I have lowered the front forks in the triple clamps by 35mm. Is this recommended and will it cause me any other problems?

And our reply.....

35mm is too much. Reread your instructions. We recommend a starting
point of about 4mm and go up or down a few mm based on rear sag and personal preference. Thirty five mm will make for an unstable front end at speed.

Scott's lowered WR250X Yamaha link

Supermoto Junkie member Scott asks....

I just bought my WR250X. This is going to be my first road bike. I am going to purchase your yamalink but I was wondering, how far in the front can you lower to match the rear adjustment on the shock and with the yamalink or do you recommend not touching the rear adjuster at all. I have the front lowered 20mm and right now the rear is kicked up a little bit but I am thinking with the yamalink it will level it out. What is your recommendation as I am only 5'5 on my best day.

Thanks Scott


Our reply:

Scott,

With the YamaLink and the stock 1" lowering via turning the clevis/shock block up, we recommend a starting point of 12mm for sliding the fork tubes up. Personal preference dictates if you go up or down a few mm from there, but the MAX we recommend sliding the fork tubes up is 18mm.

The 12mm is the most popular. There is no 1:1 lowering ratio of front & back because changes to your fork height effects geometry at a different rate than changes to the rear suspension.

Doug's 2008 YZ250 suspension lowering link question

From Doug: just installed on my 2008 YZ250. Nice product, easy to install. On the subject of the SAG - I weigh 135 lbs without gear and am not in the habit of riding punishing tracks with high jumps (I do not race). My question is: would it be OK to have the SAG at closer to 5 inches than the recommended 3.9 which would give me a slighter lower seat height (fork tubes have been raised) and softer suspension? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, Doug.

Our reply: Putting in 5 inches of sag is a BAD idea. Why? You will ride too far into the shock's progression and it will actually ride harsher on the smaller items because the shock will "think" you are much heavier and/or going much faster through a larger bump than you truly are, and it will ramp up to prepare for the big hit.

You will also lose an extra inch of overall net travel. You start with about 12 inches. Then do the approx 4 inches of sag. That leaves you 8 inches of usable travel. When you put an extra inch of sag you now have, in theory, 7 inches of net travel.

At your weight and the YamaLink the sag setting of around 100mm, give or take, should be spot on. Maybe play with your high and low speed compression, and make sure the rebound is set so it's not packing up and making the ride feel more harsh.

Try up to 105mm of sag from the 100mm we recommend. Any more than that and the rear will squat too much in relation to the front even if you slide the fork tubes all the way up.

David's KTM 350 lowering link

David had a question about the Kouba Link KTM lowering link he purchased from us:

I purchased an link from you guys a few months back - the KTM 2 link. I have dropped the front forks down as much as possible but I still have "Chopper feel to the bike". Should I crank up the preload a bit as the back feels a bit soft and I suffer a bit of understeer in the corners. I weight 68Kg's in my jocks so not heavy at all.

Any advice - must say love the bike, the link make riding a pleasure. For the first time i can touch the ground.


Our reply:

I ride a 2010 KTM 400 XCW (PDS, linkless of course) and have spent quite a bit of time on the KTM 350XC and SXF.

The PDS 400 bike likes about 105mm of sag best. The linkage 350 like to be set up more like a Japanese linkage bike. But the spring rate or shock valving on the 350 feels more linear or soft in stock form. When I set the 350 up with 100mm sag BEFORE a Kouba link it feels like it is sitting low in the rear. So I put in 95mm and eventually about 92mm of race sag STOCK.

Then you throw on a Kouba Link and its extra leverage. I would NOT reset sag at 100mm. I'd try setting sag at 92-95mm race and see if you can still get at least 1/4 inch free sag. The free sag numbers on a bike with aftermarket link are totally different than a stock linkage bike. You want a little bit, at least, to prevent the bike from having a very rigid "riding on ice" feeling over the fast chatter and ruts.

2006 WR450 lowering link require heavier spring?

Darryl rides a WR450F (2006) and asks "I weigh 72 KG (approximately 80 KG with all my gear on) I am 5 foot 8 inches tall (171 cm). What spring tension should I set my bike to? Do I need to replace the spring?"


Our reply: You may be able to set race sag at approx 94mm and still have enough free sag with the stock spring, but to get perfect handling I recommend a 5.5 kg/mm rear spring or closest rate. Then you have the option to set sag from 94 to 100mm.

WR250R Stock Lowering WR250X option

We received 3 emails in one day about "how to lower the WR250R WR250X 1 inch" by way of the factory option.

Here you go: http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-guide/suspension/115-lowering-r2

Yamaha WR250 lowering link setup

Jim, a WR250R rider asks....

May I ask an expert about suspension tuning on my 2011 WR250R after installation of my YamaLink? I am less concerned with lowering than I am improving the handling. I'm 5'10" 165 lbs. Stock, the rear end seems way too stiff with too much compression dampening.

I intend to back off the pre-set tension and also back off the compression dampening and increasing the rebound dampening on the rear.

On the front my thoughts are to increase the suspension dampening to stiffen them up and back off the rebound dampening quite a bit so the forks will return to their full extension as quickly as possible.

Any thoughts other than the obvious trial and error? Should I plan on lowering the forks anyway, due to installing the YamaLink? What are your recommendations regarding the fork height with only the YamaLink, as compared to the YamaLink with the other adjustments I just described?


Jim,

You're seeking a little more plushness and "predictable" handling without making it lower. I'm your height and weight so this should be an apples-to-apples recommendation.

Option 1: I would not lower it 1" via the factory shock block adjustment. I would put the YamaLink on. But what was the sag before the YamaLink came along? Let's say it was the 1/3 sag of total travel. If the YamaLink goes on I would actually DECREASE sag (tighten the spring a bit) to let the shock ride higher in its travel. The rear suspension would not ride lower in the progression and would give a ride that wasn't so rude. But with the WR250R/X it's a case of valving and internals; the aforementioned setup works perfectly on a WRF or YZF though. But since you're in the trial-error mode I'd take some race sag OUT and see how the rear feels. You can take 25mm out with a YamaLink and still retain stock seat height.

Option 2: Increasing the rebound (making the rear rebound QUICKER) is a good idea. You are thinking it will get the bike back to full extension where the linkage and travel stroke aren't as deep. Just make sure it doesn't kick you off the bike after landing and make sure it doesn't skip and lose traction/contact with the ground.

I'd work on the rear suspension before even touching the front. And I'd NOT raise them up in the clamps if you do not plan to lower the rear with a YamaLink. Oh, on a sidenote, this is what many do with a CRF230F; the stock suspension is rude but when they put a Kouba Link (even if the rider is not short) on the suspension acts like it should - plush, controlled, feels like it has twice as much. The same applies to your Yamaha WR.

Try that and let me know your thoughts & findings.

Is the 2003 Yamaha WR250F the same as the 2006 WR250F suspension?

Ron from the UK asks if the 03 WR lowering link are the as the 06 WR250 lowering links.... "as I'm new to enduros and only 5/8 tall so I'm at a loss don't."

Our reply, "2003 YamaLinks and 2006 YamaLinks are most definitely not the same. If I shipped you a 2003 WR link, and you tried putting it on the 2006 WR250F, the bearing pivot pins and bolts would not go into the 2003 suspension."

Changes to the 2012 WR250F WR450F? No

More of the same in 2012 for the WR250F and WR450F. Click HERE

2012 YZ250F 2012 YZ450F

Dirt Rider's take on the 2012 Yamaha YZF: Click HERE

spring rate for Yamaha?

Someone asked which spring rate calculator they should use to figure out the sag for the stock setting and the new spring rate with the extra 10% leverage of the 1.5 inch YamaLink (example: if you weigh 180 add 18 pounds, if you weigh 220 add 22 pounds, etc.)

There are a few online and we use this one: Click HERE

Doug's new YZ250 lowered with suspension link

Doug sent us a pic of his new YZ 250 which is waiting on the new YamaLink. Enjoy!

2007 Yamaha WR450 lowering link email of the day

I have a 2007 WR450f and would like to know what a good spring rate would be for my weight being 73kg. Also can I raise my fork tubes? I am 169cm tall and would really like to get my feet down for single track.

Cheers,


Our response...

Hi. 73kg is about 160 pounds and that is fine with the stock spring. The install instructions will tell you to RESET sag as being the #1 most important aspect. Light or slow riders reset sag to 100mm which is where a completely stock Yamaha WRF rear sag is set (give or take a few mm).

More aggressive riders can set rear sag to about 94mm.

Here is a good picture tutorial on setting sag: http://www.tootechracing.com/suspension_tips.htm


Then you have options to dial in the high speed compression (the big knob atop the rear shock, not the flat blade).

The install instructions will also tell you to slide the fork tubes UP at least 4mm and then fine tune based on personal preference.

More FAQ can be found on our page at http://www.motorcycleloweringlinks.com/index.php?content=wr_lowering_yz_lowering_faqs

2005 2006 Yamaha WR250F lowering link email of the day

UK rider Simon had a question about the fit and install of his WR250F:

Firstly I would thank you for the quick delivery of this item however, I not sure if either I have ordered the wrong item or the wrong item has been shipped as it does not fit my model of bike, neither does it match the picture on the web site. The width of the link is narrower then the stock item or it is missing inner bushes as the diameter or the link bolts is significantly narrower than those on the link . I have not fitted obviously and just wondered if I was missing something as the installation video shows this as a straight replacement. The one received just had needle rollers with dust cover either side. there are no spacer bushes slid into the bearings.

Please Advise

And our reply.....

The typed installation directions call for you to put your finger in the stock Yamaha rocker and pop out the two bearing pins and 4 bushings. This procedure take about 3 seconds and only requires 1 finger. Any finger. I'll copy/paste:

2. Pick up the stock rocker. Stick a finger in the 2 main pivots & pull out the metal bushings & pivot pins. Insert into the YamaLink. Be careful no needle bearings pop out. Everything should “snap” straight into place.

The directions also call for you to insert those parts into the YamaLink before installation. The picture on our website is for a pre-2005 Yamaha.

Saddlebags for Yamaha WR250R WR250X

Fishers makes a great saddle bag for the little WR250: Click HERE

New YZ 125 and YZ 250 suspension lower link

It's coming! Next week. A race-inspired suspension lowering link for the two stroke 125 and 250. We've tested, used and utterly hammered the prototypes and just this weekend decided on the final lowering amount/leverage that a racer needs & wants on the Yamaha YZ two stroke. There is no spring to swingarm contact and there is no excessive geometry change. What there is will be lots of rut eating, braking bump swallowing and start line traction increase.

Yamaha WR250R New Zealand article

Click HERE for the nice little writeup from New Zealand on the pros and cons of the WR250R.

Yamaha wr250r wr250x 1 inch lowering from the factory

Seems a few dealers are not telling customers they can lower the Yamaha WR250R and WR250X (or former owners if selling the bike used) about 1 inch via the lower shock mount. Here is a refresher on the best tutorial EVER put on the internet. It is much easier than the already-easy guide (it is about a 10 minute job):

Click HERE or go direct to http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-guide/suspension/115-lowering-r2

YZ 125 lowering and what to do with the front forks

As for the front: our super simple install instructions gives a starting point and some guidelines for raising the front forks based on personal preference and final rear sag setting. There is no 1:1 ratio since changes to rake/trail affect the geometry at a different rate than changes to the rear suspension. After lowering the YZ 125 suspension in the rear we recommend a starting point of about 4mm when sliding the fork tubes up in the triple clamps.

WR450F suspension spring rate with YamaLink lowering

Murray rides a WR450F and weighs 220 pounds, and he wanted to know about proper spring rates:

"The 2003 WR450F has a stock spring rate of 5.3 kg/mm. At 220 pounds (before gear) with the STOCK setup the spring rate for your weight is a recommended 5.7 kg/mm.

With the YamaLink's extra leverage the spring rate for your weight is 6.0 kg/mm

With proper sag you want the WRF to bottom just once or twice per ride but I know for a fact at your weight and the stock spring you are bottoming a lot more, the bike may understeer and you have too much sag. This is happening with and without the YamaLink because the 2003 WRF comes sprung for a ride weighing around 180 pounds."

Setting up WRF Yamaha suspension lowering link kit with YamaLink

Ty, a WRF rider out of Montana, asked for setup tips when installing his YamaLink.....


"I'm 5'6" with 30" inseam. Weigh about 165 lb. Anything you want to recommend before I start the install would be great."

Our reply.....

"I'd follow the simple install instructions which are included, and set you sag at around 94mm for starters.

Turn the shock's high speed compression (the big knob at the top of the shock, not the flat blade) IN clockwise about 1/4 turn for starters. Then turn in your rear shock's rebound (flat blade at bottom) a few clicks IN.

Slide the forks tubes up about 4mm. Test ride. Make adjustments to rear first. Then fine tune. You'll notice a huge increase in traction and plushness over the square edge and braking bumps. Your main goal is to only have the rear bottom once or twice per ride. You also want controlled rebound due to the extra leverage."

YZ250F Yamaha suspension lowering link

Email of the day from a YZ250F racer inquiring about the 1 inch YamaLink.

"I was wondering, if I was to get the 1" Race Yamalink for my yz250f,
do I still need to add 10% to my total body weight when determining
what spring I need for my shock.

My suspension has already gone out to factory connection, and I just
found your parts to day and I am very intrigued. I was going to have
them lower my bike but your part seems to be favoured.

I'm just wondering if I should be telling them to do the front forks
for a 190lbs rider ( my actual weight) and the rear suspension for a
220 lbs rider so that I can install a Yamalink and still have my bike
balanced.

I'm 5'8 with a 29 inch inseam."

Our reply:

When a rider tells us "I had my suspension done by so-and-so" it makes us pause. Here's what usually happens: you call the suspension company and tell them how much you weigh, what type of riding you do and what you don't like about the stock suspension. Nine times out of ten they revalve it and change the oil so the bike is a bit more plush on the small stuff (because stock MX valving beats the living daylights out of you on the small stuff in order to have enough big hit capability) but not bottom on the big landings. The suspension comes back and it's a lot better than stock.

Enter the YamaLink's extra leverage.

On a 100% stock bike such as your YZ250F, the Race YamaLink's extra leverage totally annihilates the braking bumps and square edge, plus it corners better and gets more traction. You weigh 190: do you have about 100mm sag now?

You may need a heavier spring to achieve proper sag in the stock bike with your gear on. The YamaLink can be set up with sag from 100mm to 90mm. Sometimes a heavier or more aggressive rider puts the next heavier spring on. The 1" Race does not require the 10% extra like a 1.5" YamaLink.

Your bike works best with around 100mm sag. By going to a heavier spring rate - at your weight - you can achieve that sag and still retain the big-hit capability while getting the plushness and lowering of the YamaLink.

Don't be surprised that when you tell the suspension shop about the YamaLink they will say "no, it'll screw this up and mess with that." Of course they're going to say that because it's their business to do revalving and oil changes; FYI, if you have them put a spacer in to lower the suspension you LOSE that amount of travel (1" spacer loses 1" travel) and the suspension has to be revalved for the spacer otherwise it rides like crap.

Yamaha WR250F WR450 suspension lowering link setup

A WRF lowering link rider from Big Sky Country asked for some setup tips. Our reply....

I'd follow the simple install instructions which are included, and set you
sag at around 94mm for starters.
Turn the shock's high speed compression (the big knob at the top of the
shock, not the flat blade) IN clockwise about 1/4 turn for starters. Then
turn in your rear shock's rebound (flat blade at bottom) a few clicks IN.

Slide the forks tubes up about 4mm. Test ride. Make adjustments to rear
first. Then fine tune.
You'll notice a huge increase in traction and plushness over the square edge
and braking bumps. Your main goal is to only have the rear bottom once or
twice per ride. You also want controlled rebound due to the extra leverage.

Email or call after your first test ride or two. At your weight it's a
pretty easy setup for off-road riding.

2003 WR450F suspension lowering spring rate question

Question: Hi,

I have purchased and fitted your lowering link for my Yamaha WR450F 2003 model and I have set all the suspension specs to factory settings. My problem is the suspension now feels very soft and has actually bottomed out a number of times, I know that I will need a stronger spring looking at your calculation on the website, however not sure of the specs needed, I weigh about 220 lbs, can you help?


Our reply:
The 2003 WR450F has a stock spring rate of 5.3 kg/mm. At 220 pounds (before gear) with the STOCK setup the spring rate for your weight is a recommended 5.7 kg/mm.

With the YamaLink's extra leverage the spring rate for your weight is 6.0 kg/mm

With proper sag you want the WRF to bottom just once or twice per ride but I know for a fact at your weight and the stock spring you are bottoming a lot more, the bike may understeer and you have too much sag. This is happening with and without the YamaLink because the 2003 WRF comes sprung for a ride weighing around 180 pounds.

Yamaha YZ 125 lowering kit question of the day

Does this kit fit the YZ 125? Also, does the kit lower the front and rear of the bike. or just the rear?

Reply: It fits certain years of the YZ 125: http://www.motorcycleloweringlinks.com/index.php?content=yamaha-yz-limited-lowering-link

As for the front: our super simple install instructions gives a starting point and some guidelines for raising the front forks based on personal preference and final rear sag setting. There is no 1:1 ratio since changes to rake/trail affect the geometry at a different rate than changes to the rear suspension.

Brand new Yamaha suspension link coming

The 2012 Yamaha models are a long way away, but we've been working on a brand new Yamaha suspension lowering link. Strictly for the racers, go-fast guys (and girls), tall inseams and big jumpers.

2009 YZ450F suspension lowering link YamaLink

Chris writes about his 2009 Yamaha YZ450 YamaLink.....

I did have a question about the front forks. Would you recommend changing the fork springs to level the bike out or is raising them up is that sufficient?


Our reply.....

On the 2009 YZ450F our super simple install instructions recommends raising the fork tubes UP in the clamps at a starting point of 4mm (6mm is .25 inches) and adjusting based on rider preference and riding style.

Clint's 2010 YZ and 2005 YZ suspension lower link YamaLink questions

Clint writes:

Question, so I currently have a 2005 YZ250F with a Yamalink. I really like the change it made to the bike. I am a very light rider, 5’8” and about 130 LBS soaking wet and with gear, I was able to achieve the sag with the stock spring by reducing almost all of the pre load. Something that without the link I was not able to do without softer springs. I have one minor complaint about the way the bike seems to handle. It feels a little heavy in the rear over jumps and big drop offs. While I ride mostly single track so typically it isn’t a problem, but when I would like to get the rear off the ground it’s a bit of a struggle. Not sure if there is a setup trick that might help that?

Next question, and the bigger question I now have. I just purchased a 2010 YZ250F, and am again looking for a lowering link. I noticed that the 2010-2011 version is no longer the pivot type. What difference in terms of performance might I expect from the other (older) type, if any? Also, I am considering the 1” Race version because of my performance complaint noted above.

Love to hear your recommendations.


And our reply....

Have you tried increasing your rear shock's rebound (go counterclockwise). That gives it a bit more spring for when you preload the suspension. If you do this to the rebound make sure you do not take out so much that it kicks you.

Another reasons it may seem "heavy" in the rear is because the extra leverage is allowing the rear wheel to do just that: soak it up instead of deflect. But you want a tad of deflection it seems so it doesn't feel unlively, hence the suggestion to go counterclockwise in the rebound.

The 2010 YZF is of course different due to the swingarm changes. If you go with the 1" Race you will achieve better traction, planted turning and a little lower seat height with more big jump capabilities with minimal effect on overall geometry.

Let me know how the 05 handles by decreasing rear shock rebound 2 or 3 clicks

Kouba KTM lowering link suspension set up

KTM 350XCF rider David wanted to know about setting up his new Kouba Link lowering link kit. Our reply....


David,

The #1 most important aspect will be to set sag:
http://www.tootechracing.com/suspension_tips.htm
After you install the Kouba Link reset sag according to the instructions.
You may find the extra leverage of the new KTM link about perfect even with your weight; the KTM 350 is a very soft riding bike, even the MX version feels like a traditional valved off-road bike so I can only imagine how plush the off-road version is.

If you shave the seat do not take off more than a little at a time. That
frame rail is very very uncomfortable on the back of your legs and butt.
But first try the Kouba Link, set sag and set it up.

WR250 WR450 Yamaha lowering link YamaLink suspension spring rate

Robert, a WRF Yamaha rider asked what spring rates he should consider with the new YamaLink suspension lowering kit. We replied....

If you have a WR450F the stock spring is a 5.3 kg/mm according to Race Tech,
and ideally a 5.6 + YamaLink is called for to ride at 100mm sag. I would
first try to REST your current spring to 94mm (as opposed to 100mm) and see
how you like it. Our instructions will guide you to turn the high speed
compression clockwise at least 1/4 to 1/2 turn for starters, and turn the
rebound in at least 3 clicks.

If you are on the 250F the stock spring is a 4.7 kg/mm, and ideally a 5.4 +
YamaLink is called for. All info above applies to the WR250F in terms of
setup.

2008 Yamaha WR250F lowering link suspension spring rate

A 2008 WR250F rider asked about rear suspension spring rates and lowering their Yamaha WRF. The weight was listed as 65kg.....

"With the 2007-2011 WRF Yamaha lowering link's extra 10% leverage, the bike and rider will achieve much better plushness, traction and soak up the square edge and braking. To achieve this the sag must be rest and the bike properly sprung. The stock 2008 WR250F spring rate is 4.7kg/mm.

At 65kg with the stock setup you need a 4.93kg/mm or closest.

Then we add 10% to the 65kg weight and input approximately a 72kg rider weight and get 5.09 or closest....and closest is 5.2 kg/mm which is great if the rider carries a pack or tools or water. And it allows them a bit of range on the sag setting."

TTR lowering 230 suspension

Oops, we forgot 2010's last rider review: CLICK HERE

Yamaha YZ suspenion lowering link review

Yamaha YZ 125 racer Doug posted his review over at ThumperTalk:

Click HERE: THUMPERTALK

Greasing the Yamaha suspension linkage

A few emails this week asking the same question about the amount of grease in each Yamaha suspension lowering link.

Answer: we pack about 2 years worth of moly greast INTO each bearing before shipping. We tested the snot out of one and tore it apart 2 years later. Perfect!

Brian's Yamaha WR250 lowering link

A few happy words from Brian, a WR250 lowering link owner.

Just wanted to say thanks again for your help, suggestions and the great product. Went riding yesterday for the first time with the new link and right off the bat was more than happy with the link. I COULD TOUCH THE GROUND! This was what I was initially looking for but soon found a lot more confidence in my bikes handling and ease of riding. Hooked up great out of the turns and just felt all around more comfortable. Being 40 and just getting back into riding after over 15 years I needed my bike to feel comfortable under me without sacrificing power or handling. Your Yamalink did just that and more.

Thanks again,
Brian

ThumperTalk quote WR250R lowering link

The Yamalink: got the stratospheric seat height down to where short me can reach the ground, most of the time. (31 inch inseam, I'm shrinking) After I got the sag and rebound/compression damping at both ends set up, it had not only a better ride, but better traction as well. And that was with the stock tires. I bought my '08 used at an estate sale with less than 300 miles on it, and the original owner had put all of the suspension settings in odd setups. I sorted all of that out and actually had some traction out of the rear DW. Not much, but some. Other than the ride height, I believe that the slight change in rake/trail shifted some of the weight bias rearward, which it needed badly. It almost had a street bike geometry as delivered, a legacy no doubt from being also used as the X model. It is now a "wholenuther" bike, much improved.

Quote from HERE

More YamaLink YZ 450 lowring (sic) sag suspension questions

Here is a very simple easy to understand tutorial on sag and adjustments for your Yamaha YZ lowering link: http://www.tootechracing.com/suspension_tips.htm


Reread your YamaLink instructions! Then start at 100mm of race sag then go make changes to your forks.

You have the option to set rear sag at about 94mm which would give you 1.25 inches lowering overall (6mm is .25 inches, 100mm - 94mm = 6mm.)

2009 YZ Yamaha Lowering Link suspension fork question

Mike wanted to know about raising his 2009 YZ450F forks after resetting sag with his new lowering link. Our reply....


Slide the forks up from the starting point of wherever it is now. Not all Yamahas come from the factory or previous buyer with the forks set exactly the same.

The 4-6mm raising of the forks is just a starting point we recommend AFTER resetting sag. You may find 6mm is too much, if so drop it a millimeter or two. Or you may find 4mm is not enough so you raise it a millimeter. But wherever your forks are before the YamaLink I'd recommend bringing them UP 6mm if possible.

You won't break anything or mess with anything. But you will find out if your handling is exactly right or if it needs tweaked just a tiny bit both front (forks) and rear (more or less sag).

Yamaha WR suspension lowering link quote of the day

From a ThumperTalk forum member...

"The link arrived yesterday. It's beautiful! Almost too beautiful to mount where it can get scuffed and scratched. I should have ordered a couple, one to use and one to just have as a paperweight on my desk."

Yamaha YZ two stroke lowering link email of the day

Mike from Oakley wrote....

Hi,

I just bought the YZ link online today via pay pal. Want to make sure that it comes with everything (bearings, seals).

thanks,
Mike


Our reply
Mike, it comes with all the bearings, seals and spacers.

What about the WR450 lowering link?

Antonio had a quick question about his WR 450F lowering link:
"hi i have, a 06 wr 450? i dont see wr listed?"

Here you go: HERE

And to save anyone from sending an email, that is a ML2 Racing yamaha lowering link in black (which we do not sell anymore) and with different engraving than the 2011 version.

Yamaha YZ suspension lowering email of the weekend

From Kevin, a Yamaha YZ suspension lowering rider....

After install, grease the zerk fittings or are they already greased?


Our reply....


I pack about 2 years worth of grease into each bearing before shipping.

Yamaha WR 250 suspension lowering YamaLink

From Yamaha WR250R rider Josh.....
The istall was pretty simple. The only "problem" I had was removing the stock link, I had to tap it out with a rubber mallet. I had already raised the forks a bit higher (in anticipation of the YamaLink) when I did the stock lowering and the sag was just under 100mm so I think I'm ok there.

Combined with the stocker ~1" lowering there is a noticeable drop in height, much more comfortable. I took it out for a quick 15 mile ride and I felt much more confident on the bike. I checked the torque on the bolts again after the ride and everything was still nice and tight

One question I do have is about the kickstand. It seems that with both the YamaLink and the stock lowering that the kickstand is a bit too long. Do you have any recommendations on a new kickstand?


Thanks,
Josh


Our reply....

Josh,

Good to hear the YamaLink made it. As far as the kickstand 99% just leave it as-is and turn their handlebar to the left and kick the kickstand out to the left.

A few have cut the stand and re-welded the foot back on. I don't think anyone makes a shorter kickstand for the R.