Dean, a WR250R/X rider, emails with.....
"I guess I do not understand why one would loosen the Lower Shock Block versus adjusting the larger threaded flange nuts at the top of the shock assembly. Also, assuming I follow the prescribed method, should/can the Lower Shock Block be loosened until it won't loosen anymore, or is there a risk of the entire shock assembly coming apart? I am 170 lbs., 30" inseam."
Our reply.....
Threaded nut flanges at TOP of shock allows spring to be loosened or compressed for sag only. The shock mount nut at the bottom allows the shock block/clevis to move up or down ONLY. Has nothing to do with sag. The shock mount should come in the most "loose" position from the factory. Riders are moving it UP to lower it. You move it up until it almost contacts your black rebound dial.
Thursday, August 25, 2011
Thursday, August 11, 2011
More from Darryl about lowering his WR and fork height
Darryl writes, again....
I believe having the front a lot higher than the rear will make my bike
feel driving a boat. Won't lowering the front remove the excessive
twitchiness it already had before I lowered the rear?
To which we said.....
Changes to rake/trail (the front forks) affect geometry at a different rate than changes to the rear. But it is purely up to you how much you raise the front forks.
Too much and it will shake violently at speed and oversteer at slow speeds.
Not enough and it will be super stable but understeer at slow and medium speeds and feel like a chopper.
It's all about personalization and trial-and-error. After resetting sag in rear I'd say 90% of YamaLink owners slide the forks up 4 to 10mm.
I believe having the front a lot higher than the rear will make my bike
feel driving a boat. Won't lowering the front remove the excessive
twitchiness it already had before I lowered the rear?
To which we said.....
Changes to rake/trail (the front forks) affect geometry at a different rate than changes to the rear. But it is purely up to you how much you raise the front forks.
Too much and it will shake violently at speed and oversteer at slow speeds.
Not enough and it will be super stable but understeer at slow and medium speeds and feel like a chopper.
It's all about personalization and trial-and-error. After resetting sag in rear I'd say 90% of YamaLink owners slide the forks up 4 to 10mm.
Darryl's Yamaha WR450 YamaLink lowering and fork raising question
Darryl writes.... I recently purchased a Yamalink lowering link for my WR 450.
I was impressed by how easy this was to fit and the difference it make to my bike. It lowered the rear by approx. 55mm which was exactly what I was looking for. I believe this will give me the confidence to tackle just about any hill.
My question now is I have lowered the front forks in the triple clamps by 35mm. Is this recommended and will it cause me any other problems?
And our reply.....
35mm is too much. Reread your instructions. We recommend a starting
point of about 4mm and go up or down a few mm based on rear sag and personal preference. Thirty five mm will make for an unstable front end at speed.
I was impressed by how easy this was to fit and the difference it make to my bike. It lowered the rear by approx. 55mm which was exactly what I was looking for. I believe this will give me the confidence to tackle just about any hill.
My question now is I have lowered the front forks in the triple clamps by 35mm. Is this recommended and will it cause me any other problems?
And our reply.....
35mm is too much. Reread your instructions. We recommend a starting
point of about 4mm and go up or down a few mm based on rear sag and personal preference. Thirty five mm will make for an unstable front end at speed.
Sunday, August 7, 2011
Scott's lowered WR250X Yamaha link
Supermoto Junkie member Scott asks....
I just bought my WR250X. This is going to be my first road bike. I am going to purchase your yamalink but I was wondering, how far in the front can you lower to match the rear adjustment on the shock and with the yamalink or do you recommend not touching the rear adjuster at all. I have the front lowered 20mm and right now the rear is kicked up a little bit but I am thinking with the yamalink it will level it out. What is your recommendation as I am only 5'5 on my best day.
Thanks Scott
Our reply:
Scott,
With the YamaLink and the stock 1" lowering via turning the clevis/shock block up, we recommend a starting point of 12mm for sliding the fork tubes up. Personal preference dictates if you go up or down a few mm from there, but the MAX we recommend sliding the fork tubes up is 18mm.
The 12mm is the most popular. There is no 1:1 lowering ratio of front & back because changes to your fork height effects geometry at a different rate than changes to the rear suspension.
I just bought my WR250X. This is going to be my first road bike. I am going to purchase your yamalink but I was wondering, how far in the front can you lower to match the rear adjustment on the shock and with the yamalink or do you recommend not touching the rear adjuster at all. I have the front lowered 20mm and right now the rear is kicked up a little bit but I am thinking with the yamalink it will level it out. What is your recommendation as I am only 5'5 on my best day.
Thanks Scott
Our reply:
Scott,
With the YamaLink and the stock 1" lowering via turning the clevis/shock block up, we recommend a starting point of 12mm for sliding the fork tubes up. Personal preference dictates if you go up or down a few mm from there, but the MAX we recommend sliding the fork tubes up is 18mm.
The 12mm is the most popular. There is no 1:1 lowering ratio of front & back because changes to your fork height effects geometry at a different rate than changes to the rear suspension.
Thursday, July 28, 2011
Doug's 2008 YZ250 suspension lowering link question
From Doug: just installed on my 2008 YZ250. Nice product, easy to install. On the subject of the SAG - I weigh 135 lbs without gear and am not in the habit of riding punishing tracks with high jumps (I do not race). My question is: would it be OK to have the SAG at closer to 5 inches than the recommended 3.9 which would give me a slighter lower seat height (fork tubes have been raised) and softer suspension? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, Doug.
Our reply: Putting in 5 inches of sag is a BAD idea. Why? You will ride too far into the shock's progression and it will actually ride harsher on the smaller items because the shock will "think" you are much heavier and/or going much faster through a larger bump than you truly are, and it will ramp up to prepare for the big hit.
You will also lose an extra inch of overall net travel. You start with about 12 inches. Then do the approx 4 inches of sag. That leaves you 8 inches of usable travel. When you put an extra inch of sag you now have, in theory, 7 inches of net travel.
At your weight and the YamaLink the sag setting of around 100mm, give or take, should be spot on. Maybe play with your high and low speed compression, and make sure the rebound is set so it's not packing up and making the ride feel more harsh.
Try up to 105mm of sag from the 100mm we recommend. Any more than that and the rear will squat too much in relation to the front even if you slide the fork tubes all the way up.
Our reply: Putting in 5 inches of sag is a BAD idea. Why? You will ride too far into the shock's progression and it will actually ride harsher on the smaller items because the shock will "think" you are much heavier and/or going much faster through a larger bump than you truly are, and it will ramp up to prepare for the big hit.
You will also lose an extra inch of overall net travel. You start with about 12 inches. Then do the approx 4 inches of sag. That leaves you 8 inches of usable travel. When you put an extra inch of sag you now have, in theory, 7 inches of net travel.
At your weight and the YamaLink the sag setting of around 100mm, give or take, should be spot on. Maybe play with your high and low speed compression, and make sure the rebound is set so it's not packing up and making the ride feel more harsh.
Try up to 105mm of sag from the 100mm we recommend. Any more than that and the rear will squat too much in relation to the front even if you slide the fork tubes all the way up.
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