David had a question about the Kouba Link KTM lowering link he purchased from us:
I purchased an link from you guys a few months back - the KTM 2 link. I have dropped the front forks down as much as possible but I still have "Chopper feel to the bike". Should I crank up the preload a bit as the back feels a bit soft and I suffer a bit of understeer in the corners. I weight 68Kg's in my jocks so not heavy at all.
Any advice - must say love the bike, the link make riding a pleasure. For the first time i can touch the ground.
Our reply:
I ride a 2010 KTM 400 XCW (PDS, linkless of course) and have spent quite a bit of time on the KTM 350XC and SXF.
The PDS 400 bike likes about 105mm of sag best. The linkage 350 like to be set up more like a Japanese linkage bike. But the spring rate or shock valving on the 350 feels more linear or soft in stock form. When I set the 350 up with 100mm sag BEFORE a Kouba link it feels like it is sitting low in the rear. So I put in 95mm and eventually about 92mm of race sag STOCK.
Then you throw on a Kouba Link and its extra leverage. I would NOT reset sag at 100mm. I'd try setting sag at 92-95mm race and see if you can still get at least 1/4 inch free sag. The free sag numbers on a bike with aftermarket link are totally different than a stock linkage bike. You want a little bit, at least, to prevent the bike from having a very rigid "riding on ice" feeling over the fast chatter and ruts.
Thursday, July 28, 2011
2006 WR450 lowering link require heavier spring?
Darryl rides a WR450F (2006) and asks "I weigh 72 KG (approximately 80 KG with all my gear on) I am 5 foot 8 inches tall (171 cm). What spring tension should I set my bike to? Do I need to replace the spring?"
Our reply: You may be able to set race sag at approx 94mm and still have enough free sag with the stock spring, but to get perfect handling I recommend a 5.5 kg/mm rear spring or closest rate. Then you have the option to set sag from 94 to 100mm.
Our reply: You may be able to set race sag at approx 94mm and still have enough free sag with the stock spring, but to get perfect handling I recommend a 5.5 kg/mm rear spring or closest rate. Then you have the option to set sag from 94 to 100mm.
Thursday, July 21, 2011
WR250R Stock Lowering WR250X option
We received 3 emails in one day about "how to lower the WR250R WR250X 1 inch" by way of the factory option.
Here you go: http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-guide/suspension/115-lowering-r2
Here you go: http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-guide/suspension/115-lowering-r2
Wednesday, July 13, 2011
Yamaha WR250 lowering link setup
Jim, a WR250R rider asks....
May I ask an expert about suspension tuning on my 2011 WR250R after installation of my YamaLink? I am less concerned with lowering than I am improving the handling. I'm 5'10" 165 lbs. Stock, the rear end seems way too stiff with too much compression dampening.
I intend to back off the pre-set tension and also back off the compression dampening and increasing the rebound dampening on the rear.
On the front my thoughts are to increase the suspension dampening to stiffen them up and back off the rebound dampening quite a bit so the forks will return to their full extension as quickly as possible.
Any thoughts other than the obvious trial and error? Should I plan on lowering the forks anyway, due to installing the YamaLink? What are your recommendations regarding the fork height with only the YamaLink, as compared to the YamaLink with the other adjustments I just described?
Jim,
You're seeking a little more plushness and "predictable" handling without making it lower. I'm your height and weight so this should be an apples-to-apples recommendation.
Option 1: I would not lower it 1" via the factory shock block adjustment. I would put the YamaLink on. But what was the sag before the YamaLink came along? Let's say it was the 1/3 sag of total travel. If the YamaLink goes on I would actually DECREASE sag (tighten the spring a bit) to let the shock ride higher in its travel. The rear suspension would not ride lower in the progression and would give a ride that wasn't so rude. But with the WR250R/X it's a case of valving and internals; the aforementioned setup works perfectly on a WRF or YZF though. But since you're in the trial-error mode I'd take some race sag OUT and see how the rear feels. You can take 25mm out with a YamaLink and still retain stock seat height.
Option 2: Increasing the rebound (making the rear rebound QUICKER) is a good idea. You are thinking it will get the bike back to full extension where the linkage and travel stroke aren't as deep. Just make sure it doesn't kick you off the bike after landing and make sure it doesn't skip and lose traction/contact with the ground.
I'd work on the rear suspension before even touching the front. And I'd NOT raise them up in the clamps if you do not plan to lower the rear with a YamaLink. Oh, on a sidenote, this is what many do with a CRF230F; the stock suspension is rude but when they put a Kouba Link (even if the rider is not short) on the suspension acts like it should - plush, controlled, feels like it has twice as much. The same applies to your Yamaha WR.
Try that and let me know your thoughts & findings.
May I ask an expert about suspension tuning on my 2011 WR250R after installation of my YamaLink? I am less concerned with lowering than I am improving the handling. I'm 5'10" 165 lbs. Stock, the rear end seems way too stiff with too much compression dampening.
I intend to back off the pre-set tension and also back off the compression dampening and increasing the rebound dampening on the rear.
On the front my thoughts are to increase the suspension dampening to stiffen them up and back off the rebound dampening quite a bit so the forks will return to their full extension as quickly as possible.
Any thoughts other than the obvious trial and error? Should I plan on lowering the forks anyway, due to installing the YamaLink? What are your recommendations regarding the fork height with only the YamaLink, as compared to the YamaLink with the other adjustments I just described?
Jim,
You're seeking a little more plushness and "predictable" handling without making it lower. I'm your height and weight so this should be an apples-to-apples recommendation.
Option 1: I would not lower it 1" via the factory shock block adjustment. I would put the YamaLink on. But what was the sag before the YamaLink came along? Let's say it was the 1/3 sag of total travel. If the YamaLink goes on I would actually DECREASE sag (tighten the spring a bit) to let the shock ride higher in its travel. The rear suspension would not ride lower in the progression and would give a ride that wasn't so rude. But with the WR250R/X it's a case of valving and internals; the aforementioned setup works perfectly on a WRF or YZF though. But since you're in the trial-error mode I'd take some race sag OUT and see how the rear feels. You can take 25mm out with a YamaLink and still retain stock seat height.
Option 2: Increasing the rebound (making the rear rebound QUICKER) is a good idea. You are thinking it will get the bike back to full extension where the linkage and travel stroke aren't as deep. Just make sure it doesn't kick you off the bike after landing and make sure it doesn't skip and lose traction/contact with the ground.
I'd work on the rear suspension before even touching the front. And I'd NOT raise them up in the clamps if you do not plan to lower the rear with a YamaLink. Oh, on a sidenote, this is what many do with a CRF230F; the stock suspension is rude but when they put a Kouba Link (even if the rider is not short) on the suspension acts like it should - plush, controlled, feels like it has twice as much. The same applies to your Yamaha WR.
Try that and let me know your thoughts & findings.
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
Is the 2003 Yamaha WR250F the same as the 2006 WR250F suspension?
Ron from the UK asks if the 03 WR lowering link are the as the 06 WR250 lowering links.... "as I'm new to enduros and only 5/8 tall so I'm at a loss don't."
Our reply, "2003 YamaLinks and 2006 YamaLinks are most definitely not the same. If I shipped you a 2003 WR link, and you tried putting it on the 2006 WR250F, the bearing pivot pins and bolts would not go into the 2003 suspension."
Our reply, "2003 YamaLinks and 2006 YamaLinks are most definitely not the same. If I shipped you a 2003 WR link, and you tried putting it on the 2006 WR250F, the bearing pivot pins and bolts would not go into the 2003 suspension."
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