Chris writes about his 2009 Yamaha YZ450 YamaLink.....
I did have a question about the front forks. Would you recommend changing the fork springs to level the bike out or is raising them up is that sufficient?
Our reply.....
On the 2009 YZ450F our super simple install instructions recommends raising the fork tubes UP in the clamps at a starting point of 4mm (6mm is .25 inches) and adjusting based on rider preference and riding style.
Friday, March 18, 2011
Thursday, March 3, 2011
Clint's 2010 YZ and 2005 YZ suspension lower link YamaLink questions
Clint writes:
Question, so I currently have a 2005 YZ250F with a Yamalink. I really like the change it made to the bike. I am a very light rider, 5’8” and about 130 LBS soaking wet and with gear, I was able to achieve the sag with the stock spring by reducing almost all of the pre load. Something that without the link I was not able to do without softer springs. I have one minor complaint about the way the bike seems to handle. It feels a little heavy in the rear over jumps and big drop offs. While I ride mostly single track so typically it isn’t a problem, but when I would like to get the rear off the ground it’s a bit of a struggle. Not sure if there is a setup trick that might help that?
Next question, and the bigger question I now have. I just purchased a 2010 YZ250F, and am again looking for a lowering link. I noticed that the 2010-2011 version is no longer the pivot type. What difference in terms of performance might I expect from the other (older) type, if any? Also, I am considering the 1” Race version because of my performance complaint noted above.
Love to hear your recommendations.
And our reply....
Have you tried increasing your rear shock's rebound (go counterclockwise). That gives it a bit more spring for when you preload the suspension. If you do this to the rebound make sure you do not take out so much that it kicks you.
Another reasons it may seem "heavy" in the rear is because the extra leverage is allowing the rear wheel to do just that: soak it up instead of deflect. But you want a tad of deflection it seems so it doesn't feel unlively, hence the suggestion to go counterclockwise in the rebound.
The 2010 YZF is of course different due to the swingarm changes. If you go with the 1" Race you will achieve better traction, planted turning and a little lower seat height with more big jump capabilities with minimal effect on overall geometry.
Let me know how the 05 handles by decreasing rear shock rebound 2 or 3 clicks
Question, so I currently have a 2005 YZ250F with a Yamalink. I really like the change it made to the bike. I am a very light rider, 5’8” and about 130 LBS soaking wet and with gear, I was able to achieve the sag with the stock spring by reducing almost all of the pre load. Something that without the link I was not able to do without softer springs. I have one minor complaint about the way the bike seems to handle. It feels a little heavy in the rear over jumps and big drop offs. While I ride mostly single track so typically it isn’t a problem, but when I would like to get the rear off the ground it’s a bit of a struggle. Not sure if there is a setup trick that might help that?
Next question, and the bigger question I now have. I just purchased a 2010 YZ250F, and am again looking for a lowering link. I noticed that the 2010-2011 version is no longer the pivot type. What difference in terms of performance might I expect from the other (older) type, if any? Also, I am considering the 1” Race version because of my performance complaint noted above.
Love to hear your recommendations.
And our reply....
Have you tried increasing your rear shock's rebound (go counterclockwise). That gives it a bit more spring for when you preload the suspension. If you do this to the rebound make sure you do not take out so much that it kicks you.
Another reasons it may seem "heavy" in the rear is because the extra leverage is allowing the rear wheel to do just that: soak it up instead of deflect. But you want a tad of deflection it seems so it doesn't feel unlively, hence the suggestion to go counterclockwise in the rebound.
The 2010 YZF is of course different due to the swingarm changes. If you go with the 1" Race you will achieve better traction, planted turning and a little lower seat height with more big jump capabilities with minimal effect on overall geometry.
Let me know how the 05 handles by decreasing rear shock rebound 2 or 3 clicks
Kouba KTM lowering link suspension set up
KTM 350XCF rider David wanted to know about setting up his new Kouba Link lowering link kit. Our reply....
David,
The #1 most important aspect will be to set sag:
http://www.tootechracing.com/suspension_tips.htm
After you install the Kouba Link reset sag according to the instructions.
You may find the extra leverage of the new KTM link about perfect even with your weight; the KTM 350 is a very soft riding bike, even the MX version feels like a traditional valved off-road bike so I can only imagine how plush the off-road version is.
If you shave the seat do not take off more than a little at a time. That
frame rail is very very uncomfortable on the back of your legs and butt.
But first try the Kouba Link, set sag and set it up.
David,
The #1 most important aspect will be to set sag:
http://www.tootechracing.com/suspension_tips.htm
After you install the Kouba Link reset sag according to the instructions.
You may find the extra leverage of the new KTM link about perfect even with your weight; the KTM 350 is a very soft riding bike, even the MX version feels like a traditional valved off-road bike so I can only imagine how plush the off-road version is.
If you shave the seat do not take off more than a little at a time. That
frame rail is very very uncomfortable on the back of your legs and butt.
But first try the Kouba Link, set sag and set it up.
WR250 WR450 Yamaha lowering link YamaLink suspension spring rate
Robert, a WRF Yamaha rider asked what spring rates he should consider with the new YamaLink suspension lowering kit. We replied....
If you have a WR450F the stock spring is a 5.3 kg/mm according to Race Tech,
and ideally a 5.6 + YamaLink is called for to ride at 100mm sag. I would
first try to REST your current spring to 94mm (as opposed to 100mm) and see
how you like it. Our instructions will guide you to turn the high speed
compression clockwise at least 1/4 to 1/2 turn for starters, and turn the
rebound in at least 3 clicks.
If you are on the 250F the stock spring is a 4.7 kg/mm, and ideally a 5.4 +
YamaLink is called for. All info above applies to the WR250F in terms of
setup.
If you have a WR450F the stock spring is a 5.3 kg/mm according to Race Tech,
and ideally a 5.6 + YamaLink is called for to ride at 100mm sag. I would
first try to REST your current spring to 94mm (as opposed to 100mm) and see
how you like it. Our instructions will guide you to turn the high speed
compression clockwise at least 1/4 to 1/2 turn for starters, and turn the
rebound in at least 3 clicks.
If you are on the 250F the stock spring is a 4.7 kg/mm, and ideally a 5.4 +
YamaLink is called for. All info above applies to the WR250F in terms of
setup.
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
2008 Yamaha WR250F lowering link suspension spring rate
A 2008 WR250F rider asked about rear suspension spring rates and lowering their Yamaha WRF. The weight was listed as 65kg.....
"With the 2007-2011 WRF Yamaha lowering link's extra 10% leverage, the bike and rider will achieve much better plushness, traction and soak up the square edge and braking. To achieve this the sag must be rest and the bike properly sprung. The stock 2008 WR250F spring rate is 4.7kg/mm.
At 65kg with the stock setup you need a 4.93kg/mm or closest.
Then we add 10% to the 65kg weight and input approximately a 72kg rider weight and get 5.09 or closest....and closest is 5.2 kg/mm which is great if the rider carries a pack or tools or water. And it allows them a bit of range on the sag setting."
"With the 2007-2011 WRF Yamaha lowering link's extra 10% leverage, the bike and rider will achieve much better plushness, traction and soak up the square edge and braking. To achieve this the sag must be rest and the bike properly sprung. The stock 2008 WR250F spring rate is 4.7kg/mm.
At 65kg with the stock setup you need a 4.93kg/mm or closest.
Then we add 10% to the 65kg weight and input approximately a 72kg rider weight and get 5.09 or closest....and closest is 5.2 kg/mm which is great if the rider carries a pack or tools or water. And it allows them a bit of range on the sag setting."
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