WR WR250F lowering link from PlushPuppy

Came across an older post from a ThumperTalk member, PlushPuppy, about her Yamaha WRF lowering YamaLink:

HERE

1999-2001 WR lowering YZ Yamaha YamaLink

YZ lowering/WR lowering new product:

Who knew the 1999-2001 Yamaha lowering link would be so well-received! Different in so many ways: bearings, seals, grease zerks and PRICE (they're $185 vs $225....although for one week the $185 applies to all WRF and YZF lowering YamaLinks).

Yamaha YZ450F lowering thread

Dion sent us this thread he posted about the YZF lowering link Holiday Special:

CLICK

Kouba Link CRF250X lowering link

Tomy writes "Hello. I recently bought a link from you for my son crf150rb. I was very impressed by your quick shipping of the product. So thank you. So now I want for for my 250x. I looked at the koubalink website and it stated I can use a crf3 on my 05 250x to get it 1.60 inches lower. On your crf page you do not have an offering for a crf3 in my year. Is there a rason why? Will there be a technical issue if I get the crf3? thanks."

Hmmmm, good question. Our reply...."I guess I forgot to put the CRF3 for your 05 CRF250X up. If you want, go ahead and order the CRF3 for the 2006 CRF250X. It's the same Kouba Link/same price; it'll lower your 05 the 1.6 inches (as you know, it lowers the 06 1.5 inches but that obviously doesn't matter to you)."

Yamaha WR250X WR250R forum

Yamaha WR250R and WR250X site of the day.... We're probably very late to jump on this Yamaha WR250 site, but in case you are, too: WRR/X Forum

Yamaha WR250 lowering question of the day

From Bryan out of Michigan regarding his WR250R/X lowering and how much he should raise the forks in the triple clamps after installing the YamaLink and the stock lowering...

The instructions you'll receive recommend a starting point of 10mm fork raising, and you'll adjust based on personal riding style and terrain. It'll be evident if the bike understeers/turns too slow (you then raise the forks a bit more) or if it oversteers/headshakes (you drop them down a few millimeters).

18mm is the max you raise the forks. I'd say 95% of YamaLink owners raise the forks about 8 to 12mm.

YZ450 WR426 lowering suspension post

This is a recent post of ours on a bike forum in regard to the most common misconceptions about Yamaha YZ and WR lowering links....

Lowering the rear does not mandate raising the fork tubes in the clamps an equal amount; changes to rake/trail affect geometry at a different rate than changes to the rear.

On average, lowering the rear 1 inch on a linkage bike with a connecting rod or rocker usually means the forks are raised 3 to 6mm to get "balanced" handling. If you do not raise the forks you will get understeer aka a chopper.

The more a link lowers the bike the more plush it will be due an increased leverage ratio but it will also bottom easier. Those in need of a heavier spring rate with the stock setup may require a heavier spring rate with the aftermarket link.

Internal spacers decrease overall travel. A link with an increased leverage ratio does NOT decrease overall travel.

As for beginners and those who benefit from a lowering link, many tall go-fast type racers use lowering links - not in the 1.5 and 2 inch version, but more sub-1 inch - from companies like Pro Circuit; almost every pro SX and MX bike I've seen in the past few years changes their suspension link based on the track and conditions. It helps decrease front end weight transfer and allows the rider to keep the bike lower on jump faces and keep the power on longer through the square edge and chop.

Bolt-on artists or those who do not like to alter or mess with the stock setup should stay away from lowering links. But for some it can increase speed, traction, cornering, stability and confidence. To each their own.

WR250 and WR426 lowering link YamaLink style!

In about a week or so we will have Yamaha WR lowering link kits for the WR250F and WR426F, model years 1999, 2000 and 2001. Whew!!

2010 Yamaha YZ250F lowering link YamaLink

Yamalink's 2010 Yamaha YZ 250F lowering link is coming....

2010 Yamaha YZ450F test @ Eastern Dirt

While we're still working on a 2010 Yamaha YZF lowering link, we'll drool over the bike via Eastern Dirt Magazine (which has done a review of the YZF YamaLink):

Article is HERE

Yamaha lowered WR250 video of the day

We really, really like this blog. It's the next best thing to actually riding your Yamaha WR250R. Disclaimer: we get dizzy "riding" over the rocks in the beginning, then again, we get car sick reading a map while in motion.


Scotty's Travelblogue

Yamaha WR lowering question of the day

From Todd out of Los Gatos.... "i've got a question for ya.
On the wr250x after getting rid of the gap between the shock block and adjuster clicker on the bottom of the rear shock and installing your yami-link what is the maxiumum i can push the front forks up into the clamps? All the way till it touches the bottom of the bars?"

Our answer, that is also included in the written installation instructions, is 18 millimeters. Eighteen mm is for super tight turning; the average amount WR250X and WR250R riders slide the forks up is 10mm.

Yamaha WR 250 lowering pic of the day

This Yamaha WR 250 lowering pic comes from our buddies at SMJ.

Yamaha WR site, Big Dog Adventures

The Yamaha WR250R site of the weekend is from Big Dog Adventures:

Click HERE

WR250R Rick Ramsey great site!

Yamaha WR250R lowering link site of the, um, month:

Rick Ramsey's very thorough modification page: HERE

Yamaha WR suspension lowering tech post

Yamaha WR lowering post of the day:

Lately we've had a few overseas Yamaha WR250 and WR450 riders order the wrong YamaLink part. They've shipped over a 2005 lowering link when in fact their bike is a 2004 model. Here is the big difference: the 2004 stock suspension rocker looks like the picture attached. It has TWO large pivot bushings and pins. The 2005 and newer has smaller bushings and separate pins.

If your Yamaha rocker looks like this you do NOT have a 2005 YamaLink coming your way. You should have a 2004 or older YamaLink.

2010 Yamaha YZ450 James Stewart US Open

Found this vid last night. At about the 53 second mark #1 does a crazy triple/triple. I like the "reaction" the guy in the stands has, almost like "Oh, okay, will this be over in time for my 10:30 showing of Cirque du Soleil?"

Yamaha WRF lowering spring rate discussion

We're often asked if a rider should get a heavier spring with their YamaLink. Our reply is always "if you're on the border of needing a heavier spring with the stock setup you will most definitely need one with the YamaLink."

Why?

The WRF stock spring rate of 5.3 is set up for a rider around 175 pounds BEFORE gear. When you put on your boots, helmet, riding pants and protection you're getting pretty close to needing a heavier spring to achieve 3.9 to 4.1 inches of sag. Add a tool pack and backpack and things get even closer to needing a heavier spring.

The YamaLink has an increased leverage ratio which means it will make your bike a lot more plush on the square edge and choppy stuff in addition to making it get better traction because the tire can bite into the ground better. It also means the leverage will make the rear wheel move through its suspension easier which can lead to much easier bottoming. This is where the proper spring rate comes in.

If you are about 180 pounds before gear and are an aggressive rider, you will need a heavier spring even without a YamaLink. Add the YamaLink and, well, you know the answer. Someone on ThumperTalk recently posted his WRF and YamaLink experience. Click HERE to read about it. Too lazy to click? Okay, here is what the Colorado-based rider wrote:

"Just an fyi based on personal experience-bought and installed the YamaLink and resprung (from 5.3 stock to 5.9). Static sag and laden sag are now perfect, and the bike is transformed. Rear wheel slides are dial-a-slide easy with the throttle, the suspension is plush but not saggy, and overall riding is great. I'd recommend it to anyone, even if you aren't doing it to lower the bike.

BTW I'm 6'2", 180 w/out gear so the stock stuff was real close already. I do mostly trail riding with a rare track day."

Yamaha WR suspension lowering post of the day

This Yamaha WR lowering question comes from Australia's Karl M.


Question: Hi there,

I sat on a WR250R the other day and it is just way too high. I am a learner, so I'd like to have as much of my feet on the ground as possible. I am really intersted in this link, but I'm unsure if it will lower the bike enough for me. I've seen posts on some forums which state that the link will lower the bike by 1.25'' and that with stock lowering it could be reduced a further inch, which would give 2.25''. However, on your site it says I would gain around 2''. I am 5 foot seven and only weigh about 65kg (143lbs).

Do you think this link will lower the bike enough to make it comfortable for me to learn on?

Also, can you estimate how much foot purchase I might obtain?

One last thing - Is the stock lowering adjusment and the sag adjustment one and the same?

I really don't want to buy a KLX250!


Reply: Sag and the stock adjustment are NOT the same. Sag is dialed in via the lock ring at the top of the shock, and as you know, the stock lowering is done via the shock mount/clevis at the bottom. There is a picture tutorial on our page for the stock lowering: HERE

And as a refresher, here is the website we send everyone to for sag: SAG

The 1.25 inch lowering from the YamaLink is no longer the amount; the very first handful of prototypes were 1.25 but it's now a hair less than an inch. Combined with the stock lowering, the YamaLink will give you a little under 2 inches total. We could've built a lowering link with more, but there are clearance issues and handling issues. We know for a fact the front forks cannot be raised in the clamps more than 18mm (the included install instructions recommend a starting point of 10mm which is what 99% of WR250R/X owners use and prefer) if you want safe and proper handling, so we built the back as low as possible with that in mind.

The bike is indeed tall, and at 5'7" with what I presume to be an inseam of about 29 inches, the bike even in lowered form won't be short like a scooter, ha! If I remember, the Kawi has a 35 inch seat height. The WR250R has a 36.6. So with the YamaLink and stock lowering you'd be almost the same as the Kawi. Just something to think about.

2010 Yamaha YZ450F

Yamaha YZ lowering post of the day from Yamaha USA's site: HERE

2010 Yamaha WR250F

Here's the glamour shot of the 2010 Yamaha WR250F.

Yamaha WR lowering question of the day

Yamaha WR lowering question of the day:

Question: I got the YamaLink installed without much issue this evening. I am wondering how this link lowers my seat height as it looks like the same link as the original except for the lack of the notch for the back bolt to keep it from spinning (hence you instructions) to use the vise grips... Can you give me a 50,000 foot overview of how your link lowers my bike?

Reply: The YamaLink looks almost identical to the oem connecting rod save for the
bolt-stop you mentioned.

Your WR250, like most linkage bikes, has an approximate 3:1 ratio. When designing the lowering link we knew for a fact that the bike could not go more than 2 inches total in the rear: both for safety and proper handling. Your WR has the .9 inch oem lowering option so we had to come up with the other portion of the lowering. Prototype after prototype was built and we came up with what you put on - a lowering link that is x-amount LONGER than the stock rod.

x-amount multiplied by 3 gives you the increased leverage (better small bump absorption and traction), lower center of gravity (better turning) and lower
seat height which stays within the performance and safety parameters we tested for. We decided on the longer link amount to the millimeter.

Yamaha YZ lowering link post of the day: Budds Creek AMA National

Yamaha YZ Lowering post of the day:

National #169 Ty Conner will be attempting to make the big show at this weekend's AMA Outdoor National at Budds Creek aboard his Rat Racing YZF. Can't really tell by the pic but all four of Ty's bikes (2 practice, 2 race: 250F and 450F) have the 2009 YamaLink Race. Lap times dropped 2 seconds due to the increased plushness on the braking bumps and the rider is able to keep the bike lower off the face of jumps! The stopwatch doesn't lie.

Yamaha WR lowering link post...about the Kouba Link

Whoa, what's this? A WR lowering link post about a CRF3 Kouba Link? Well, we do stock a few of Mr. Kouba's products, and this info is informative for all off-road link users. Our reply below pertains to a beginner considering lowering his CRF250X...

"At your weight of 179 before gear (if I read that correctly) you may be borderline for needing a heavier spring. The KoubaLink CRF3 will increase your leverage ratio: this will not only lower the rear end, but it will make your bike more plush on the smaller stuff in addition to having a lower center of gravity (leads to better turning when the front forks are raised in the clamps, more on that later) and will get better traction.

The downside to this - and I bring up your weight and spring rate - is easier bottoming. Yes, you should bottom once or twice every ride but this bottoming I speak of with the stock spring (again, at your weight minus gear) may lead to wallowing and a mushy ride no matter how you try to compensate with compression.

As for rubber marks on the underside of your fender. No worries. Take a look at the underside of any of the bikes on the starting line of an AMA National, even a WORCS, not just a MX race. Big black marks. Let me rephrase that: GIANT black rubber marks. And not once have I seen a rear wheel come through the rear fender. No, you and I are not pros; my point being is every major pro team changes their linkage for each track. Heck, I know several privateer teams running Pro Circuit and other companies' "lowering links": they're more performance links because they're all one inch or less. They don't want a shorter bike like you and the CRF3 idea, they're going for the increased traction, decreased weight transfer to the front on hard braking, lessening the rear end stepping out on rough corner entry, etc. while maining full travel. And yes, they too will have more plushness and a slight increase in bottoming. Disclaimer: every team I've spoken to with non-oem links have their spring rate properly set up and their sag reset.

The first thing you need to do with any lowering link no matter the amount (shorter ones such as the Kouba 7/8" or Pro Circuit's sub-one inch or Devol, etc) is reset sag. A linkage bike such as your CRF requires approximately 1/3 sag of total travel. Honda's guidelines allow for a few mm each way for personal preference.

I have ridden a CRF3 equipped bike with the forks raised a large amount. I don't have the exact amount but I'd say they were a good 12 to 18mm (.5 to .75 inches...they were visually more raised than my forks which are usually 3 to 6mm on my dirt and 10mm on my dualsport). Mind you, there is no need for a 1:1 lowering of fork vs rear end because changes to rake/trail (fork) affect geometry at a different rate than changes to the rear being lowered. I reset sag for my weight, kept the forks at the owner's setting and proceeded to ride the snot, er, ride the bike all day. It was very "balanced" and did not headshake like a wet dog nor understeer like a NHRA dragster trying to make its way through a Wal Mart parking lot."

Yamaha WR lowering link "link" of the day

Rick Ramsey fetched himself a new Yamaha WR250R from the Gunnison, Colorado, dealer today. His Yamaha WR section is relatively new, but knowing his passion for tinkering, you can bet it'll be full of useful info in no time flat!

Rick's site: HERE

Yamaha WR lowering WR250X

Question about Yamaha WR lowering on Supermotojunkie.com as related to raising the forks on the WR250X.

"10mm is the most popular starting point to raise the forks in the triple clamps; the most you can move the forks SAFELY on this bike is 18mm. There is no 1:1 ratio of fork/rear end lowering because changes to rake/trail (the fork) affect geometry at a different rate than changes to the rear.

Extensive testing showed us that 2 inches (just a hair under, really) is the most you can lower the rear of the R and X while still maintaining a "balanced" ride up front. Anything more than 2 inches total in rear and the forks cannot safely be raised to give a ride capable of withstanding race-type speeds and handling. This is not to say a very very short leisurely rider could not get away with more lowering.

Depending on rider preference you just slide the forks up or down a few millimeters. As you may or may not know, 6mm is approximately 1/4 inch. But 10mm is a great starting point. Too much and the bike headshakes and oversteers. Not enough and it turns like a NHRA dragster and understeers. Thankfully it takes just a few bolts to make the fork height changes; please retorque the clamp bolts correctly.

As someone else noted, 1/3 of total travel is used for sag, give or take a few millimeter. The "give or take" is, again, based on personal preference.

And as the installation instructions note, make sure your chain is properly tightened (approximately 45-50mm of slack measured at the middle/bottom of the chain when the bike is off the stand....someone please correct me if I'm a bit off on this comment)."

WR lowering: sag

Yamaha WR lowering post of the day: how to set sag.

Seems to be a very popular question. The most important part of any suspension yet so many don't do it.

Click HERE.

WR lowering post of the day

WR lowering post of the day in regard to the misconception that lowering links decrease travel.

All the bikes I have seen with stock links that have a rubber mark on the rear fender have been bottomed hard and are a long way into the neoprene shock stop. Mfg's advertise the total travel assuming the shock stop is not on the shock shaft, so to get the rubber marks on the rear fender that stop has to be compressed pretty hard, also you have to consider the sub frame and fender flex. The way to measure usable travel is remove the rear shock spring, cycle the swing arm thru its arc until the weight of the bike is lifted with the shock stop. That travel measured will be about 30% less than the advertised travel. Longer links increase the leverage ratio slightly so that in turn increases both the total and usable travel. They also allow the tire to hit the fender sooner and harder as the stop does not have to be compressed as far. I would not say that a bike is under sprung from the factory because the tire is hittng the fender, first compare the race sag and the free sag to figure the correct spring rate.

Yamaha YZ lowering post: James Stewart on YZ

Yamaha YZ lowering link post of the weekend: #7 riding a 2009 YZ250 two stroke....

HERE

WR lowering post o' the day: how to set sag

Sag. No, not the Screen Actors Guild or what happens to pretty body parts when you get older. Sag as in suspension sag settings.

You'd be surprised how many riders on all types and brands of bikes do not know how to adjust sag or why they need to.

How to adjust sag easy tutorial: http://www.tootechracing.com/suspension_tips.htm

The above link mentions 4" sag which is common for linkage bikes with 12" travel. You want about 1/3 sag for total travel. Obviously the WR R/X does not have 12 inches of travel.

While I'm here, how about a quick sag tutorial as a refresher?

Many times people say "put more sag in" to get your feet closer to the ground but what happens is you are using too much travel and now you are riding too far into the progression of the shock spring. This makes the bike ride very rude AND you have less travel remaining to handle the big hits. And often times when too much sag is put in the front end understeers because the geometry cannot compensate. It will ride like a chopper. With proper sag you can adjust the front forks to get a balanced ride. And NO there is no need to raise the forks the same amount as the rear was lowered because changes to rake/trail (the forks being slid UP in the triple clamps) affects geometry at a different rate than changes to the rear.

Ten millimeters is a very popular starting point for the WR R/X forks when the rear has a lowering link. Three to six mm for others bikes is the norm. You then adjust the forks up or down based on personal preference (some ride tiiiight woods and some ride high speed sand washes and some are kinda in the middle).

When you don't have enough sag your rear wheel cannot follow the terrain efficiently and you lose traction, get a higher center of gravity and the suspension wants to bounce and skitter across the terrain which just magnifies the lack of travel. Eventually your bike is traveling slower and working harder over the same terrain that a bike with proper sag is absorbing and working WITH to propel you forward.

2009 Yamaha YZ lowering race link

Yamaha lowering post of the day....

Prototype. 2009. YZF. Race-only. Being tested, used and abused by a select group of racers who do things on bikes we can barely fathom. More to report as we get feedback.

James Stewart Public Ride Day

WR/YZ lowering link post of the day: Ride with James (more like: watch James go around you like a missile passing a VW Bug).

Click here for video.

New Yamaha Lowering Link: TTR230

Bingo, it's here!

TTR 230 YamaLink

James Stewart 2010 YZ450 insight

Newly-crowned AMA SX Champ gives a peek into the 2010 Yamaha YZ Fo'fiddy.

HERE

WR/YZ lowering: how to set sag

We're glad WR/YZ lowering link riders are coming straight out and asking, "How do you set sag?"

It's not a stretch to say most do not know for one reason or another. This site is our favorite on explaining and showing how to set sag. Quick and easy read.

Click: Too Tech

WR/YZ lowering link & fork question

WR/YZ lowering link question of the day.

Hello,

When you install the link, does it increase/decrease the rake of the front forks? How do you keep the factory rake settings on the forks after installing the link?

Thanks,
Jay


Reply:

Jay,

Since there is no 1:1 lowering ratio of forks vs rear (because changes to rake/trail affect your bike's geometry at a different rate than changes to the rear), our instructions give guidelines for raising the forks in the triple clamps.

For the WR250R/X (total of about 2" lowered in rear), the forks are raised at a starting point of about 10mm.

For the WRF and YZF 250F/426F/450F (1.25 to 1.75 inches), the forks are raised at a start point of 6mm.

For the two stroke YZ (1 inch), the forks are raised at a start point of about 5mm.

Everyone then adjusts based on personal preference, riding style, terrain and where they set their sag (sag must be reset after installing the YamaLink); a quick turning yet stable ride is easily attained.

YZ lowering question o' the day

From Greg asking about his YZ lowering needs...

I trail ride, hill climb, race hare scrambles, and some minor jumping. I am 5'10" and ride a YZ250F and I touch almost with balls of feet on level ground. Hill climbs during races if something happens putting a foot down is not an option most of the time. Will this help me and if so is there help in setting all my settings where they should be after applying the link. By the way I weight 180 lbs. Thanks a lot.

Greg,

Your YZ250F YamaLink comes with easy to follow installation instructions AND set-up guidelines covering sag, compression, rebound and fork adjustments. Takes about 10 minutes to install, set the sag, dial it in and go.

At 180 pounds (with or without gear) you're on the edge of needing a heavier spring with the stock setup. With the YamaLink you will reset the sag at 3.5 inches, go in just a hair on the high speed compression and two clicks in on the rebound. The YamaLink makes your suspension more plush and it soaks up the square edge and braking bumps while giving you better traction and cornering. It's all due to the increased leverage ratio which also makes the rear wheel travel through its arc easier and it will bottom easier, hence the tuning guidelines above. Big jumps and ditch bashers are not recommended for aftermarket links. Cross country, off road and GNCC/WORCS type guys love it!

YZ lowering question of the day...and sag

Troy asks about his YZ lowering....

"i have a 2003 yz 125. i am about 132 lbs 5' 6" should i adjust sag first then try the link or a combination of both i have not really messed with the sag or adjust the suspention thank for your help"


Troy,

Hi. You should always set sag on any bike whether stock or with a YamaLink. Your bike is recommended at 3.9 to 4.1 inches.

Some inseam challenged riders put too much sag in to get their feet on the ground but when you do that it takes away from the overall net travel left to suspend you for that BIG hit...and you are riding too far into the progression of the travel. Meaning: yes, your feet can touch with too much sag but the bike will ride very rudely. Rude plus less overall travel is not a good thing, ya know.

When YZ 125 riders put on the YamaLink 1" lowering link, they have to reset sag because it has an increased leverage ratio. This makes the bike more plush on braking bumps and square edge, and it allows the rear wheel to travel further into its suspension arc.

Of course sag is dependent on having the proper spring rate. If you are too heavy for your bike to begin with (about 170 pounds is the average weight of rider that Yamaha sets their YZ125 up for) a YamaLink will magnify the wrong spring rate.

But if you have the correct spring rate and set sag at 3.9 to 4.1 inches, your 2003 YZ125 will corner better, get better traction and not wear you out so much after hours on the track or trail.

Hope this helps. Let us know if I can answer more questions.
Thanks!

Not about WR/YZ lowering: Will we be kidnapped in Mexico?

We have some great friends! Tonight at dinner - at a crappy Mexican restaurant that just opened in town - they were taking bets as to whether or not I'd be kidnapped during my 6 nights at Tierras del Sol. I'm serious. They were too. Most of the "bad stuff" is taking place hours and hours away from the white sandy beach where you'll find my empty bottles. Having said that....

If your emails are not answered EVER AGAIN, chances are I'm in the trunk of a Nissan Sentra in the bottom of some farmer's ditch. Sweet.

Yamaha lowering link for the TTR230

It's coming. May. We figured it'd be easier to give the bajillion of TTR230 riders what they truly need instead of giving them a lame excuse of why a Yamaha lowering link wasn't available.

You can have it in any color as long as it's black

The blue WR250R/WR250X YamaLink has been out of stock for a few days. We thought it'd be no big deal seeing as how the Black YamaLinks have been moving quite well, but to a few they want blue or nothing at all.

Blue will be available in about 9 days from this post.

50% WR/YZ lowering link question

99% of our emails have to do with WR/YZ lowering links. And then there are those sent purposely to us just to shoot the breeze. We like these emails even though they have nothing to do with a motorcycle. Read on....

Email Question: What kind of boots do you guys prefer for when the weather is not so nice?

Our reply: Gaerne SG10 is a great durable highend choice.

(a day later the emailer sends....)

Email Question #2: No, I meant for going out on the town whether in jeans or khakis. Something casual but sharp.

Our reply: Oh why didn't you say this was a fashion question? We truly like the J Crew Rugged Red Wing boots. Retail is $225 (same as a YamaLink WRF, woo) but you can find deals. Seems the "rugged/work boot" fashion is in high gear with several options on the market. Vintage and worn in is the goal as seen by one picture as compared to the brand new "hey look at my new shoes" geek version. Go with what fits your feet and budget. Ours loves the J Crew version and we're working tirelessly to break them in (even wearing them on a 7.5 mile hike....we have the blisters to prove it). Is there anything you'd like to ask regarding suspension or motorcycles in general?

Their reply: No. Bye.

Going Postal for smaller deliveries

Good news for us. Good news for you. Yet it's still kind of "boring" news. I mean, it's just about mailing a small flate rate box. But what it also means is that you won't have to look on your porch or go to the postal center (total inconvenience, we know) to fetch a flat rate envelope that was too large to be placed in your mailbox.

The United States Postal Service has a new small flat rate box that fits every single YamaLink! Overseas global priority mail can even hold TWO yamaha lowering links for the same price of one! And domestic orders are still $5 for priority mail whether it's one or two. And as we happily-tongue-in-cheek cheered in the first paragraph, everything will be more convenient for you! Woo. Go Broncos (local inside humor no one will get).

Out of the office..... Tulum, TWO months from now

We'd like to let everyone know now that we will be out of the office.....from March 18 through March 24. Orders will still be shipped as usual, but no one will be answering the phone or replying to emails. We'll repost a reminder as March 18 draws near.

The picture is where we'll be. One and a half hours outside Cancun, on the edge of Mayan ruins. Our little bungalow is in Tulum on the most pristine white sand beaches. And if you'll believe this, we're leaving the Yamahas, Blackberry and laptop at home.

2009 YZ250F comment from Dirt Rider forum

"the handling... esp the cornering is awesome! it's much better in the turns, kicking it, stopping, starting everything is much improved and the bike seems to absorb bumps like they are invisible."

Just how easy is it to install a YamaLink?

Yamaha Lowering Link install feedback...

I told my wife it would be easier to install than her Kouba link on her CRF250X. So I lifed up the bike and let her figure it out. Within 2 minutes, she figured it out. SO if a a woman who is not mechanically inclined can figure it out, anyone can. An excellent product that is a breeze to install.